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The Slab
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$00pr kr33m S 
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Film Noir S 
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Undertow S 
Whipping Post S 

Family Man 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Beh, Matt Samet, Phil Gruber, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,735
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Jul 3, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Dave Turner at the crux.
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Family Man starts 15 feet left of Boys With Power Toys. This steep route climbs through 3 successive overhangs.

Climb a 5.8 slab up to a left-facing corner. A 5.10 move gets you established below the first roof. (The first roof is typical blocky Flatirons sandstone. Be a little careful with what you pull on here but the rest of the route has solid stone.) A 5.11 move gets you to jugs at the lip and then a good rest above.

The second roof is the crux, maybe a V4 move to a jug, hard to read and easier if you're tall. Be ready to keep moving, the pump clock will be ticking from here to the top. After the crux, traverse right along a rail. FYI as of 10/20/2010, the key pebble for a 10+ cross over move broke, the move is now a huge reach from the rail at your feet, reportedly hard 11. The final bulge is 5.11 on cool, water sculpted holds.


Protection 

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Family Man Slideshow Add Photo
Pullin' the 5.11 roof.
Pullin' the 5.11 roof.
Dave Turner pulling the 5.11 first roof.
BETA PHOTO: Dave Turner pulling the 5.11 first roof.
Looking up Family Man.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Family Man.
Comments on Family Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Beh
Jul 3, 2008

Matt Samet drilled all 11 protection bolts for me on 6/21/08. What a Bro! I doubt I could have redpointed the same day if I had to do all that drilling. Thanks Matt. Matt tr'd clean and then pulled up the drill. After another top rope burn and some thorough brushing I was able to redpoint on my first attempt.
Phil went up there with me last year the first time we climbed on the route. As usual Phil figured out all the moves right away. I sent the route on tr that day.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 4, 2008

Funny, Matt and I were just talking about that very subject in reference to a different route a little earlier this week.
The contribution and effort speaks very well of Matt... but to get 'credit' for an ascent, I have always thought that climbing the route is required.

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Jul 10, 2008

Very nice route Chris, a good addition to the selection of climbs there! However, I was surprised to find a long (20+ foot?) runout at the end and I'm wondering if I missed a bolt up there? Now all we need is a warm up route easier than 11d for this area!

By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Jul 29, 2008

Great route, tricky crux. Seemed harder than Undertow, way more sustained. Way to work w/ the FCC. More please....

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Sep 14, 2008

Nice route Chris, fun climbing and lots of it. Kudos on the heavy labor Matt.

I agree with Steve and gotta say bro, after all your squealing about the "contrived runout" on Kevin's route Wishbone in Eldo, that was quite the little contrived run-out atop this route, seriously out of character with the plethora of nice bolts on the rest of it. Not that I'm suggesting anyone waste their time or money adding one as it's fine. Better than fine, it's a great addition, with more traffic it should become a classic on this soon to be "number crunching crag", keep up the good work man.

Looking forward to the upcoming .13s . . . .

By Chris Beh
May 29, 2009

I had the drill out, putting in an anchor on the adjacent line so I added a 12th bolt to this route. The anchor isn't visible from the 11th bolt. The new one points the way. My permit allowed 12 bolts.

By Chris Beh
Oct 31, 2010

A hold broke above the crux sometime in October. It was the pebble for the 10+ cross over move. I haven't been on it since, but I watched two strong climbers do it, and they thought it is now 11 to 11+, a height-dependent reach move from the long rail by your feet.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 9, 2013

That reach is real hard if you are 5'10" or shorter.... It is the second crux certainly.

By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

At 5'7'', the reach move sure felt like another crux. Any shorter it might feel harder than the crux proper.

By Chris Beh
5 days ago

I am 6 feet, and after working out beta, I think it is an easy 11 move for me. However, a 5 foot tall lady I was climbing with, who climbs 5.14, couldn't even do it on top rope. I am going to apply to add a bolt for that move. It is a lousy fall on the current bolt the way the terrain is configured. Hope to get it in sometime this year.