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Jewels and Gems
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diamond and Coal T 
Family Jewels T 
In The Buff T,TR 
In The Rough T 
North Country Club Crack T 
Pearl necklace  T 
Shaky Spider T,TR 

Family Jewels 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Lent, Nick Gully, Jeremy Degroff
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Tom Gosselin topping out over the roof

Description 

Climb the broken, unappealing rock below the small roof and pull through the roof (crux), passing a bolt along the way, to a hand-sized crack. Follow the crack to easier, albeit dirty, rock above with a little space between protection. Belay off of trees at the top.

Opinion: This seems like a very very very easy 5.8+. No where near the burlfest of the similarly-graded Clutch and Cruise.

Location 

Start: Approximately 50 left of the start for North Country Club Crack at a section of broken rock. There is a small roof with a single bolt below the roof.
Descent: There is no fixed anchor at the top. Either follow the walk-off trail down from the top or walk down to the fixed anchor for North Country Club Crack.

Protection 

One bolt below the small roof. No fixed anchors at the top.


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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 18, 2009

If someone wants to add more detailed gear info or anything else, post a comment and I'll amend the route info. It's been a while since I climbed this so my memory isn't as clear.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 19, 2009

Greg,
I think your description is spot on, and I would amend it at all. Your description allows the climber to judge what gear will/will not work, and if he/she wants to climb it at all. I agree, this route is a bit easy in the grade, AND very dirty to boot!!
By Jay Piasecki
From: Keene Valley, NY
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really just a one move wonder at the lone bolt... still a fun route none the less. Despite other accounts the runout slab isn't that dirty. (And it's only 5.3-5.4 for 20 ft.)
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Loose and dirty start, fun moves pulling through the roof! Then a short crack climb to the top!
By KVRob
May 3, 2014

I didn't find it dirty at all. One move wonder..yes. It's really a good introductory 5.8. You have to clip the bolt from a stance that isn't perfect, then keep moving for a few moves. I would take away the +.