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Climb the broken, unappealing rock below the small roof and pull through the roof (crux), passing a bolt along the way, to a hand-sized crack. Follow the crack to easier, albeit dirty, rock above with a little space between protection. Belay off of trees at the top.
Opinion: This seems like a very very very easy 5.8+. No where near the burlfest of the similarly-graded Clutch and Cruise.
Start: Approximately 50 left of the start for North Country Club Crack at a section of broken rock. There is a small roof with a single bolt below the roof.
Descent: There is no fixed anchor at the top. Either follow the walk-off trail down from the top or walk down to the fixed anchor for North Country Club Crack.
One bolt below the small roof. No fixed anchors at the top.
|Comments on Family Jewels
|By Greg Kuchyt|
Jul 18, 2009
If someone wants to add more detailed gear info or anything else, post a comment and I'll amend the route info. It's been a while since I climbed this so my memory isn't as clear.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 19, 2009
I think your description is spot on, and I would amend it at all. Your description allows the climber to judge what gear will/will not work, and if he/she wants to climb it at all. I agree, this route is a bit easy in the grade, AND very dirty to boot!!
|By Jay Piasecki|
From: Keene Valley, NY
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Really just a one move wonder at the lone bolt... still a fun route none the less. Despite other accounts the runout slab isn't that dirty. (And it's only 5.3-5.4 for 20 ft.)
|By Matt Baer|
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Loose and dirty start, fun moves pulling through the roof! Then a short crack climb to the top!