Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Darryl Roth, Mark Van Horn, '89
Page Views: 3,092 total · 15/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Family Jewels is an old-school classic that is unfortunately marred by the 2002 addition of a new squeezejob to the right. It's hard to feel like you're not cheating when your foot is 2 inches from one of the neighboring route's bolts.

Begin up a slabby prow on stellar rock clipping homemade angle-iron hangers. Some tricky moves at the top of the slab lead to a rest at the horizontal break. Move right onto the face where thin crimping and the occasional pocket lead to a clean, rippled panel. A thin two-finger pocket and a big dyno gain a sickled-shaped ripple that offers some marginal crimps. Move quickly with poor feet to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

This is the first route right of My Testosterone... on the South end of The Vault.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. Per Adam bloc: this anchor has been improved.

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