Family Jewels
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 81 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Darryl Roth, Mark Van Horn, '89 |
Page Views: | 3,092 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on May 30, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Family Jewels is an old-school classic that is unfortunately marred by the 2002 addition of a new squeezejob to the right. It's hard to feel like you're not cheating when your foot is 2 inches from one of the neighboring route's bolts.
Begin up a slabby prow on stellar rock clipping homemade angle-iron hangers. Some tricky moves at the top of the slab lead to a rest at the horizontal break. Move right onto the face where thin crimping and the occasional pocket lead to a clean, rippled panel. A thin two-finger pocket and a big dyno gain a sickled-shaped ripple that offers some marginal crimps. Move quickly with poor feet to the anchor.
Begin up a slabby prow on stellar rock clipping homemade angle-iron hangers. Some tricky moves at the top of the slab lead to a rest at the horizontal break. Move right onto the face where thin crimping and the occasional pocket lead to a clean, rippled panel. A thin two-finger pocket and a big dyno gain a sickled-shaped ripple that offers some marginal crimps. Move quickly with poor feet to the anchor.
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