This route has been TRed many times I'm sure. However , another lead route on this wall is welcome. The name comes from the fact its on Family Wall and that the opening move (crux) will be argued be all climbers, Dad may say it's barely a 6 , Mom may say "Oh it's a hard 7 alright" and the kids will have to figure out an extra move or 2 to make the reach. Obviously, height is an issue here. Bolts are placed so a 5.6 leader will feel comfortable with an easy runout at the top.
This route is near the middle of the Family Wall or Montreat Wall between Test Pilots and Comatos. Locate low bolt (crux) left of the unnamed 5.6 bolted line on the right. There is a split trunk oak behind.
4 bolts and a small cam after the 2nd bolt , double bolt anchor
BETA PHOTO: Montreat Wall- Routes
|By Austin Harris|
Jun 15, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
The Montreat Wall is downhill and left of the Comatose area (farther away), and downhill and right of the Testpilots area (much closer than Comatose).
The hardest moves are thin, slabby friction moves. It's not very fun unless you just like that kind of climbing. Once you get to the anchor, you could walk left to another double bolt anchor to Top Rope that long Off Width crack in the big Right Facing corner, or just that 5.6ish face just right of the ow (off width). About 6' to the left of that big Right Facing corner, there is a great 5.8 trad route going up that featured face, well protected, going to a tree you could rap off (currently with a rap ring on cordelette that I don't trust.) On the 5.6 sport route to the right of Family Feud somebody chopped the 4th bolt on an easy section (there are 4 bolts remaining). I guess the chopper is a NC local that likes to keep climbing unsafe and exclusive.
|By Mollie Kane|
From: Asheville, NC
Sep 24, 2013
Thanks for the addition to this wall! Love the bottom section of this climb!! As you know, my shortness (5'0") sometimes makes clipping stances interesting, but I enjoyed the extra moves I had to make to reach bolts!
Dec 24, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fun climb that definitely lives up to it's name. The crux at the bottom is great to figure out no matter what your height.
|By chris mcguigan|
From: belmont, nc
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Im 6'2" and I think that bottom move is every bit of 5.8
There is some small gear in between bolts.