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Backhand Wall
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Big Bull 
Bosch it 
Family Affair 
GAC Rulz 
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Midget Magic 
Moms Rock 
Triangulate 

Family Affair 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris and Kimberly Craig
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,611
Submitted By: Chris Craig on Jan 27, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

This route can be done in one long pitch (130 feet)or two pitches. Both pitches are bolted. Start below a shallow left facing corner. 6 bolts to chains (Shared anchor of Bosch It).

Pitch two. Climb bolts up and over very exposed roof(10 bolts). You can rap the route with one rope but getting getting to the anchor at the top of the first pitch is somewhat difficult as the top pitch is overhanging.


Location 

This route is 10 feet downhill from Triangulate, which is downhill from GAC rulz. This route can be done as one or two pitches. 2 ropes to rappell from top.


Protection 

16 draws if you want to do it as one long pitch.



Photos of Family Affair Slideshow Add Photo
Family affair pitch 1 start
Family affair pitch 1 start
Reuben climbing Family affair
Reuben climbing Family affair
Family affair more
Family affair more
My entire family one after another leading family affair
My entire family one after another leading family ...
Comments on Family Affair Add Comment
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By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Feb 4, 2008

If I was actually on this route, which I think I was, it was certainly not 5.9 I climbed it after a party bailed off, and I would say it felt more like 5.10.

I only climbed the first half to the anchors, and it was quite enjoyable. There is an exciting traverse to the left after the second bolt that could result it a painful pendulum collision with the flake to the right, but the climbing is quality.

By Chris Craig
Oct 12, 2008

Another bolt was added to the first pitch after Erics comment. Second pitch is now fully bolted. A fun long sport route.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 20, 2009

Did this in two pitches today and it was a blast. Cool features and lots of air on the second pitch. The first pitch seemed like it was 5.10 and the second maybe 7+. There is a bit of funk to the second pitch but I didn't have any trouble avoiding it. We traversed right about 20 ft. to some chains and got off with a 60M rope. I would take long draws and some shoulder lengths if I did it as one pitch.

By Myk
From: tucson, az
Nov 19, 2011

This route is a blast! Did it in one pitch, but the rope drag really sucked toward the top. Great exposure on the 2nd pitch. Some fun 5.10 climbing on second pitch if you go all the way to the top. Was able to rap off with 1 rappel with a 70m rope. If using a shorter rope, don't try and rap to 1st pitch belay station, rather rap straight off and you'll be at the top of Moms Rock. Super fun free hanging rap from there. Thanks for a great route!

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Very safe now. Clean, thin edges. Shady.

By Hubert Cumberdale
Feb 27, 2014

There were two bolts on the 2nd pitch that were a little loose (both hanger and nut). Someone should bring a wrench with them on the next climb and tighten those down. Also, there is a handhold sized flake on the 2nd pitch, right before you go around the corner, that I felt like I almost pulled off. Great climb though. We just rapped straight down to the anchors of Mom's and then set up a toprope for that route.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 20, 2014

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LOWER OFF THIS ROUTE IF YOU DO IT AS A SINGLE PITCH. HAVE YOUR PARTNER FOLLOW IT IF YOU DO IT IN ONE PITCH. A 70M RAPPEL CAN BE DONE BUT IS JUST BARELY LONG ENOUGH. YOU CAN ALSO RAP TO THE TOP OF MOMS ROCK AND RAP AGAIN.