Family Affair 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Chris and Kimberly Craig |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Chris Craig on Jan 27, 2008 |
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Reuben climbing Family affair
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Description This route can be done in one long pitch (130 feet)or two pitches. Both pitches are bolted. Start below a shallow left facing corner. 6 bolts to chains (Shared anchor of Bosch It).
Pitch two. Climb bolts up and over very exposed roof(10 bolts). You can rap the route with one rope but getting getting to the anchor at the top of the first pitch is somewhat difficult as the top pitch is overhanging.
Location This route is 10 feet downhill from Triangulate, which is downhill from GAC rulz. This route can be done as one or two pitches. 2 ropes to rappell from top.
Protection 16 draws if you want to do it as one long pitch.
Family affair pitch 1 start
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Family affair more
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Cruxy move
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My entire family one after another leading family ...
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| Comments on Family Affair |
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By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Feb 4, 2008
| If I was actually on this route, which I think I was, it was certainly not 5.9 I climbed it after a party bailed off, and I would say it felt more like 5.10.
I only climbed the first half to the anchors, and it was quite enjoyable. There is an exciting traverse to the left after the second bolt that could result it a painful pendulum collision with the flake to the right, but the climbing is quality. |
By Chris Craig
Oct 12, 2008
| Another bolt was added to the first pitch after Erics comment. Second pitch is now fully bolted. A fun long sport route. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 20, 2009
| Did this in two pitches today and it was a blast. Cool features and lots of air on the second pitch. The first pitch seemed like it was 5.10 and the second maybe 7+. There is a bit of funk to the second pitch but I didn't have any trouble avoiding it. We traversed right about 20 ft. to some chains and got off with a 60M rope. I would take long draws and some shoulder lengths if I did it as one pitch. |
By Myk
From: tucson, az
Nov 19, 2011
| This route is a blast! Did it in one pitch, but the rope drag really sucked toward the top. Great exposure on the 2nd pitch. Some fun 5.10 climbing on second pitch if you go all the way to the top. Was able to rap off with 1 rappel with a 70m rope. If using a shorter rope, don't try and rap to 1st pitch belay station, rather rap straight off and you'll be at the top of Moms Rock. Super fun free hanging rap from there. Thanks for a great route! |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10-
| Very safe now. Clean, thin edges. Shady. |
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