False Modesty 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Jim Shimberg, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on Feb 25, 2007 |
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this is Lily climbing false modesty...
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Description Probably the easiest route in the area. The first bolt is a ways off the ground, but the angle is a little less steep than the neighboring climbs. Big holds along the entire route make for easy climbing. The last couple moves around the overhang at the top are fun. The guide book says that everything below the anchors is 5.6, with the last 5.7 mantle above the anchors.
Location Center of No Money Down wall. Look for a large patch of lichen left of Easy Terms with a left pointing flake near the bottom. False Modesty follows the bolts left of the lichen through a small overhang at the top.
Protection Four bolts to Quick Clips.
another one of Lily on False Modesty...
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Allie climbing
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False Modesty
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| Comments on False Modesty |
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 4, 2009
rating: 5.6
| Does anyone besides me find this climb extremely enjoyable? |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.6
| The quick clips at the top of this is extremely worn i wouldnt even suggest lowering off it i would say only rap off of it. I will mention this to Jim and see what can be done... |
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Sep 7, 2009
| Noticed this today actually. I left 2 biners up there because they are extremely worn through. Is it possible to replace some of these with 1/2" screw links? That way you would have to use your own gear. |
By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Oct 18, 2009
| I climbed this route yesterday and the nut on one of the bolts (I think the 3rd) was extremely loose. I hand tightened it but obviously it should be looked at and fixed. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.6
| Thanks for the heads up I find myself on this route quite a bit so i will try to remember a wrench next time im headed that way |
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Jun 6, 2011
| Did this yesterday in the rain. The worn through quickclips were replaced with new ones, but the were oriented the wrong way. I hung the new ones directly from the hangers to orient the rope better when lowering. |
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 7, 2011
| Thanks Jcomeau. Looks like a good job. What do you think about that third quick clip being left in place? I think it needs to come down, being 75% worn through. |
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Jun 8, 2011
| I was going to cut it off but there were other people at the meadows and didnt want to tie up a route. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 8, 2011
| You should have told them to wait! You were conducting important business up there. |
By S. Neoh
Jun 8, 2011
| "You should have told them to wait! You were conducting important business up there."
+1 :) |
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