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Routes in Table Mountain
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"False" Holy Smoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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[Redacted] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Bugs Eat Frogs T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Cader Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Citizen of the Realm T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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City of Lost Children T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dick to the Rescue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Genevieve T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Holy Grail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hornet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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King Arthur's Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Merlin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Merlin's Wand T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Noble Gesture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Old Smokey's Return, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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One Joust Wonders, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Percival's Quest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Percival’s Revenge T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Picnic Table T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Red Knight's Romp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Siege (“Seat”) Perilous T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Sir Bors Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Sir Hector's Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Table Talk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | UNKNOWN |
| Page Views: | 1,464 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
"False" Holy Smoke 5.5 FA UNKNOWN -- Bolted with 3/8 SS bolts this is the most well-protected, less-than-5.10 climb on the cliff.
For years this climb was attributed to Doug Burnell and Doug Teschner, FA Oct, 1993. However, both climbers confirm this is NOT their route (see comment posting date 16OCT13) They actually did the FA of the 1st Pitch of what is today known as Table Scraps; their P2 traversed right under the large overlap to where the Picnic Table dike comes in, and then climbed up to the top via the dike to reach the tree of the "Bugs" anchor/rap station, which they thought was the top Merlin rap station!
Enough of history, back to the climb at hand!
P1 Climb up to the small hole (5.3), move right, then climb the upper left-facing flake (good pro) and near its top step left onto the face and up to a bolt. Move up and right to a stance and a tricky move (Bolt, 5.4-5.5 ) then romp up the face clipping the bolts ( two or 3 ?) to the double bolt anchor. 130 ft 5.5 ( 5.4-5.5) Rap from here with two ropes [The route's Bolt #1 seems to be a collection point for biners, which are left when single-rope rap attempts with a 60m rope come up short. Alternately, climb 20 ft right ( 5.2 ) to the Merlin belay where a full-length single 60m will get you down by swinging right.
P2 If desired, climb up and left climbing over the overlap a foot or two left of a small bush (bolt), then straight up the slab (2nd 3/8 inch bolt, 5.4-5.5) then further to the trees at the very top-most portion of the slab, passing one more new 3/8 inch bolt. Wire brush helpful, this pitch sees little traffic. There is an ancient rap station on a tree at the top. (This may have been the rap station used by Paul Ross in the 1975 FA of the slab.) About 125 ft 5.4-5.5 The hiking trail is about a 50ft bushwhack through the woods.
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