False Gods, Real Men
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Unknown climber follows in the rain on False Gods,...
Two and a half stars. Almost stellar, but the scramble up the initial 40 feet to the ledge and then the chimney below the climb are both mediocre.
You can find False Gods...easily enough because it can be identified as the steep, colorful face left of a huge Chockstone in a prominent chimney midway up the upper section of Nebel Horn Ridge. Find the chockstone by following the faint trail leaving from the Fern Canyon Trail to the Nebel Horn Ridge from behind a season wildlife closure sign well on your way to the ridge crest.
P1:Lead up a crack by stepping over from a rock and scramble past a tree (double length runner) and set up a quick anchor in the back of the chimney. Bring your second up.
P2: To reach the bolt climb on the face above, you'll need to run it out up the largely unprotected chimney to the first bolt about 25' off the deck. It might be possible to fiddle some gear, but it is best to be competent at the grade because it is easy. Clip the bolt and step over to the face on big jugs. A quick left traverse along jugs leads to fun yarding up incut holds past 5 more bolts. Some of the moves are just plain great. Find a two bolt anchor. The rap rings and slings need to be replaced.
#4, one double length runner, stoppers and small gear for anchor on ledge, 6 QDs and a couple leaver carabiners and slings.
BETA PHOTO: False Gods/Rad route shot.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 8, 2002
Definitely can be done in 1 pitch. This sucker definitely is a pumper, endurance fest. It ain't over until you top out. Small stance to belay up your 2nd.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rare 'big holds' and incuts climb on steep Flatirons rock. Unique for the area. Reminded me of Red River Gorge, KY. It stays dry in a light rain, too!
After chimneying up to a good stance for the initial clip, the bolts are quite close together and reasonable to push your grades on.
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 27, 2012
This is Michael Massari's route. I belayed him on the FA. Great rock from a Philly/Gunky with an eye for a sweet line.