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False Alarm 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Climb a thin crack in a right leaning ramp to a stance below a pair of broken cracks. Climb broken cracks to a heuco with crappy rock. Here you may understand where the name of the route comes from. Pull a small roof on the right via a crack. Climb a dirty unprotected face until you near ground fall zone. Here you may wonder why the hell you are climbing this route. Finally some gear and more dirty climbing leads to the rings on Sanskrit.

Location 

5 feet left of Sanskrit at a right leaning ramp/corner with a thin finger crack.

Protection 

Emphasis on small stuff. Shares rings with Sanskrit.


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By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Dec 4, 2011

I give the first 30 feet one star, the rest minus a star...but maybe I'm being harsh.
By phil prbrev
Jan 16, 2012

not a great route, especially when so many classics so close. bottom thirty feet are okay, gear is in not great rock to pull the roof. After roof I would head right and finish on sanskrit. (or just climb that sanskrit) not missing anything if you don't climb it.
By Mark O'Neal
From: Nicholson, GA
Nov 19, 2012

Agree with the others. Bottom part was OK, then it quickly becomes awful. Unfortunately we were already half way up when we were asked why we were on this pile. That said, we went up the dirty barely protected face to finish in style