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 ADVANCED
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balcony, The TR 
Birnam Wood T 
Cerebration T,TR 
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 
Double Overhang T,TR 
Eave of Destruction T 
False Alarm Jam T,TR 
Foreplay T,TR 
Friendly Banter T,TR 
Green Bulge TR 
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 
Hirsute TR 
Jungle VIP TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Mezzanine, The T,TR 
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 
New Light Waves TR 
Orgasm T,TR 
Orgasm Direct T 
Out of the Woods T,TR 
Resolution TR 
Resurrection TR 
Second Balcony T,TR 
Second Coming TR 
Unnamed 5.4 T,TR 

False Alarm Jam 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,809
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 2, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Steve Zaleski mid crux of "False Alarm Jam".

Description 

False Alarm Jam is on the east side of Rainy Wednesday Tower. Climb up ledges to the obvious, steep crack. Jam the crack with good jams to get over up to a nice ledge. Ascend the final face to the top.

Protection 

Standard rack with some large stuff. Very well-protected.


Photos of False Alarm Jam Slideshow Add Photo
The Outhouse (135), False Alarm Jam (137), and Resurrection (138)
BETA PHOTO: The Outhouse (135), False Alarm Jam (137), and Res...
False Alarm Jam
BETA PHOTO: False Alarm Jam
Jon J. leads False Alarm jam on the first seriously sunny and warm weekend day of Spring 08 at Devils Lake.  Photo by Jerry W..
Jon J. leads False Alarm jam on the first seriousl...
Jason Willis cruising up the crack on False Alarm Jam.
Jason Willis cruising up the crack on False Alarm ...
Some of the best jams are to be had on this route. Protects well!
Some of the best jams are to be had on this route....
Reinke cleaning up False Alarm Jam during a late night ascent.
Reinke cleaning up False Alarm Jam during a late n...
Rainy Wednesday Tower
BETA PHOTO: Rainy Wednesday Tower
Colin
Colin

Comments on False Alarm Jam Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 12, 2002

False Alarm Jam is a nice and long intermediate climb. Setting a TR on Rainy Wed Tower can be dicey. Access is found on the West side of the tower.
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2002

I climbed this again today and really enjoyed it. Jams in the crack make it much easier than trying to face climb through this section.
By wayniak
Apr 12, 2003
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Sweet, longer climb which sucks pro off your rack and rewards the leader with moderate exposure. Typically not crowed and somewhat isolated from the usual crowds on the East Rampart. An infinately better way to the top of the East Rampart than one of the established trails.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb shut me down today on lead. I could not mentally get through the crack. I retreated but will someday come back for a victorious run on this aesthetic crack.
By Rich T
Oct 8, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I hear you Andy, I'm a relatively new leader and I led this back in the spring. I felt it was very committing but just had to tell myself that I can climb 5.7 on top-rope no problem. I just ran-out the crux, which probably wasn't the best idea either. I look forward to getting back on it. Doesn't the book rate this as 5.6?
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Yeah, the book does rate this at 5.6. The problem for me was that it was my last climb of the day and I was fairly exhausted. Rich, how do you suppose this is a PG13 rated climb? It protects well up to the crux, through the crux and after...