Fallout  5.6

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  dragons on Nov 19, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: View of the bottomless chimney on Fallout, G Wall,...

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Description 

The crux is probably getting up the "bottomless chimney" (description from Boston Rocks guide). It's a slanted chimney, so it's awkward.

This climb is sweet because of the variation. Getting to the chimney is an easy clamber, so you're fresh when you reach it. Then figuring out how to squeeze your way up it is fun. When you pop out the top, you're confronted with a flat surface that has narrow holds which you climb up to the anchor.

Location 

This is the left-most climb on G Wall. Look for a bottomless chimney, about 18 inches wide. It starts about 20 feet off the ground, next to F Wall. Climb up and through the chimney, then do some face climbing with tiny holds to reach the anchor.

Protection 

Use a top rope to anchor. Head past H Wall using the stone path. Take the obvious trail to the left, and turn left to reach the peak. There are two trees and two giant, old, but sturdy, metal staples at the top which can be used to anchor. The staples are fairly close to the edge, the trees are set back a bit. Perhaps 20 or 30 feet of slings are enough for a good anchor setup.

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Shawn in the squeeze crux.