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 ADVANCED
Perfect Crimb Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Advanced Birding S 
Crank-n-Go-Go S 
Demystification S 
Don't Mean Nothin' T 
Fallout, aka Perfect Sex S 
Gear Fear T,S 
Hateful Pleasures T,S 
Lacuna S 
One Hand Jam S 
Perfect Crimb, The S 
Pulldown Menu S 
Technical Difficulties S 
Vice Squad S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fallout, aka Perfect Sex 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FTR: Nate Postma,/FL: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 1,214
Submitted By: Chris treggE on Jul 17, 2006

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Just after pulling through the roof.

Description 

Big and burly is the name of the game. This route is 2 to the right of Perfect Crimb, and starts up the face to the big notch in the lower roof. It's pretty sandy on the first face so be careful climbing to the first bolt. From there, catch a little rest under the roof before setting out for the sprint to the anchors. Pull the roof and then move left around that hanging flake and onto the next face. I've heard you can knee bar somewhere up there but I never tried. Pull the next roof and finish on good but pumpy jugs and edges. Then attempt the real crux of the climb, retrieving your notched biners, because you are too cheap to buy notchless ones.

  • RCM&W #86, p. 131

Protection 

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Also, you will want to use a long sling for the bolt under the big roof. Even still you get some rope drag up high.


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By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Oct 30, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Watch out for the big sharp flake in the crux (the hanging flake that Chris is describing). It vibrates when slapped. If it ever comes off it could cut the rope or mess up the belayer. Lou Hibbard suggested using double ropes on that climb. May be a good idea.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

holds are dirty and loose at the small roof before the anchors. i broke off multiple holds.