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DescriptionFalling Rock is good for a pumpy winter workout, or a forearm burn for an hour or two after work. This area is a limestone walled canyon which stays warm enough to climb in the winter due to south facing rock. There is not a huge quantity of routes, but they are all vertical and less than half a rope length. The parking lot is located at the top of the cliffs, so setting up topropes is very easy, although many routes are bolted. Also, a few cracks are available, so bring a light rack to lead these. Getting ThereDrive four and a half miles out of Rapid City on highway 44 (Rimrock Highway) from the junction of Jackson Blvd and Canyon Lake Drive. As the road curves to the right, watch for a gravel road leading off to the left. Turn on to this road and immediately is a parking lot for the main area, which has the south facing cliffs and the bulk of the routes. If desired, continue another .7 miles to a pulloff on the left with an old blocked off dirt road. Park here for the north facing cliffs, which are better for warm days. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Falling Rock:
Darn You Gangles V2 Boulder Falling Rock Boulder
Flat Linner V3-4 Boulder, 13 feet Falling Rock Drainage
Tension Comprehension V5 Boulder North Canyon Wall
Project Mayhem V5 Boulder, 10 feet Falling Rock Boulder
The Dawning Direct V7-8 Boulder North Canyon Wall
Freight Club V10 X Boulder, 10 feet North Canyon Wall
Paperboy Centerfold 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet North Canyon Wall
Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet South Canyon Wall
Garden Party 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet North Canyon Wall
Spermatose 5.9 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet South Canyon Wall
Getting The Bob 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet South Canyon Wall
Two Bits 5.9 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet North Canyon Wall
France By Chance 5.10b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet North Canyon Wall
Men Without Egos 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet South Canyon Wall
Seams to Go 5.10 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet North Canyon Wall
Blockhead 5.10 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet North Canyon Wall
Killer Wasp From Hell 5.10c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet North Canyon Wall
Flatland Fever 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet North Canyon Wall
Adaptation 5.11a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet North Canyon Wall
One Finger Solution 5.11c Sport, TR, 50 feet North Canyon Wall
Featured Route For Falling Rock
Men Without Egos 5.10b SD : Falling Rock : South Canyon Wall
To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is north facing and descend. After exiting the coulair, m...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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