Falling Rock is good for a pumpy winter workout, or a forearm burn for an hour or two after work. This area is a limestone walled canyon which stays warm enough to climb in the winter due to south facing rock. There is not a huge quantity of routes, but they are all vertical and less than half a rope length. The parking lot is located at the top of the cliffs, so setting up topropes is very easy, although many routes are bolted. Also, a few cracks are available, so bring a light rack to lead these.
Drive four and a half miles out of Rapid City on highway 44 (Rimrock Highway) from the junction of Jackson Blvd and Canyon Lake Drive. As the road curves to the right, watch for a gravel road leading off to the left. Turn on to this road and immediately is a parking lot for the main area, which has the south facing cliffs and the bulk of the routes. If desired, continue another .7 miles to a pulloff on the left with an old blocked off dirt road. Park here for the north facing cliffs, which are better for warm days.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Falling Rock:
To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is north facing and descend. After exiting the coulair, m...[more]Browse More Classics in SD
Can anyone provide better directions to "Falling Rock Boulder"? I can't see bolts on anything out trher but the regular routes.
from the site directions: "There is a large bolted boulder on the northwest side of the canyon." ...and... "Find this boulder near the North Canyon Rim in between the parking area and the downclimbing chimney. "
I've found a large "candidate" boulder, w/ fist crack up the middle and really smooth high east side, that would make some good top rope climbs (if you're up to it), but I don't remember seeing anchors on top. This boulder is below the overhanging section of the North Canyon wall. Also, does anyone have info on the bolted routes on this overhanging section?
Important access issue! This it to inform all climbers that have or are planning on accessing Victoria Canyon by way of Dark Canyon to boulder or climb NO MORE ACCESS THIS WAY! PRIVATE PROPERTY! It is trespassing if you go in this way no matter where you park. There is another way in by way of Sheridan Lake road when the USFS road opens on May 15th. For more information you can email me through this site.
To whom may know I am putting out a new guide book for Black Hills Limestone due spring 2010. It will include Spearfish, VC and looking at Falling Rock. I do not know the routes for Falling Rock, if anybody can help me out that would be great. This book will have pics of pretty much every wall, not the hand drawn topos like the past. Plese email if you have some input. Mike
Help Awhile ago I asked for any info on topo's for Falling Rock. Some nice person sent me what they had and I have since lost it. My skills for being organizd in this guide book adventure are being tested to a new level. So if that nice person would please send me the said topo's again I would be forever in debt. Also any information that anybody feels need be in the new Black Hills Limestone book please let me kow ASAP. Mike
To all Falling Rock Climbers- The Forest Service intends to remove the tree on the edge of the North Wall that is the traditional anchor for a couple of routes. Turns out the roots are rotting, so please don't use this tree as an anchor in the meantime, it should be gone soon.
The BHCC has said they will donate 10 new sets of glue in anchors for falling rock. I will be putting them in to replace the nasty ones on the north wall. Any more ideas on good places for them please let me know. Mike
Here is the latest and greatest on Spearfish Canyon, The VC and Other Black Hills Limestone. There has been another delay on the printing. So Sharpend and I have worked out a deal on the e-books. I am now selling e-books for the same price of $28.00. So if you have prepaid for a book already I will give your contact information to Sharpend and they will send you the e-book link then you will get a hard copy when they arrive. If you want an early e-book, give me your email so I can invoice you and get an e-book on the way to you. If you have any questions on this deal please contact me. Remember 5% of sales through me goes to the local bolt and anchor repair fund. My contact info can be found at www.blackhillsclimbingguide.com