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Falling on gear success stories! (Where the rock didn't completely blow out)
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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Aug 9, 2011
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Josh- I took a similar whipper onto that piece (which I believe is the smallest made by Metolious?) on the Moratorium. Totally held. Definitely a confidence building experience.
And Holmes, is that the Sacherer Cracker story you recounted to me once?


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By ZANE
From Cleveland, OH
Aug 14, 2011

The thing I've always wondered is how many people get back the nuts that they whipped on? Most of the placements I make feel as if a whip would weld them pretty good. Maybe my second just doesn't like cleaning them...

(First post!)


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By Scott O
From California
Aug 15, 2011
Batman Pinnacle

ZANE wrote:
The thing I've always wondered is how many people get back the nuts that they whipped on? Most of the placements I make feel as if a whip would weld them pretty good. Maybe my second just doesn't like cleaning them... (First post!)



I use the biggest cam I have as a hammer against the nut tool.


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By Tim McCabe
Aug 15, 2011

Scott O wrote:
I use the biggest cam I have as a hammer against the nut tool.


Some people weld their gear in even without falling on it. I used to carry a #9 hex along with the nut tool.


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By Ben Beard
From Superior, AZ
Aug 15, 2011
roo, my only son, the stare that takes down a herd of 'stock

I took 2 falls on a blue tcu, #1, about 8 feet, on some queen creek dacite tuff. Held just fine, got a good catch from the wife, just a little freaky on small gear on some ash tuff.


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By Gregger Man
Aug 15, 2011
gg

Three years ago I was attempting to onsite the 1st pitch of Rosy Crucifixion . I got past the bolts and immediately placed a gray and a yellow Zero. I fiddled with the gear too long. (While I was hanging out there I equalized the two pieces with a sliding 'x'!) Definitely the wrong approach to protecting that climb since there are several cam placements to the lower right. I got tunnel vision and made a bee-line for the anchor without placing any more gear. Went way too high and was about to lose it when I grabbed the nylon and started to Fred Flintstone up the rock. Couldn't hang on. My pendulum fall took me all the way back to smack my heel on the slope below the belay.
Those little cams held.


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By percious
From Bear Creek, CO
Aug 15, 2011
Hanging out with some scooter trash.

Anatomy of a 40 footer:

Staring up at my belayer from below, I replay the fall in my mind.

Ah. Rosy. Hersey and others have soloed you. I was clearly not ready for you. A blue alien held my first 15 foot pendulum. Gaining the traverse, I brought my belayer over to the shit-infested belay. Up two more pitches and the adrenaline would the dissipate. On lead again. 5.9 never felt so hard. Cruised to the crux, only a coupla pieces placed. The pump starts, I weight my gold link-cam.

It holds.

Sigh of relief.

Try again at the crux. NO GEAR!!!

The pump overwhelms, the last piece is far out.

downclimb.

--------
Foot Slips
--------

Launched airborne. My descent slows. I watch as my weighted link-cam flies from it's home.

Acceleration resumes.

The next piece is 6 feet down, despite the plentitude of protection below the formerly lodged link-cam.

The rope grows tense. The yellow alien holds, my belayer flies by.

I hang in space and look above at my work, a link cam dangles from my belay knot.

Thanks for the catch Simone!


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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Phoenix, AZ
Aug 15, 2011
Belay

I fell ~15ft on a 100% pumped-out & blind nut placement on the Sword pitch on the Grand Wall in Squamish. That was exciting, but it held just fine.


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By Josh Cameron
Aug 15, 2011
Castleton Summit Sunset

I fell three times onto a #3 Metolius nut before I finally pulled through a 10a mantle. Each fall was about 6 feet. It was an amazing feeling looking up and seeing that little nut holding me.


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By serock
Aug 25, 2011

I broke a grey tcu and fell @ 15ft onto my orange


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By Chase Roskos
From Boulder, CO
Aug 25, 2011
The Raven - Shelf Road

I think this video belongs on this thread.



edit to add: Looks like it already was in a link. But anyway... it's pretty damn remarkable.


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By slim
Administrator
Aug 25, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

first day out early this spring in eldo, first piece in was a #2 balnut. went past it, slipped and fell on it. it wasn't a very good placement and i figured i would crater into a snow bank below. it held, and i slowly opened my eyes and looked up at it. just then it slipped until 1/2 the ball was hanging out of the crack. i shit myself.


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By slim
Administrator
Aug 25, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

Peter Franzen wrote:
I fell ~15ft on a 100% pumped-out & blind nut placement on the Sword pitch on the Grand Wall in Squamish. That was exciting, but it held just fine.


gotta love those squamish nut placements - kachunk!


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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Sep 4, 2011

My first lead fall (Trad or sport) was 8-10' onto an orange BD slung Hex. Maybe 1.5x2" or so. It held just fine. Fell onto it 4 or 5 more times trying this roof that was way past my skill level.


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By spn
From Sioux Falls,SD
Sep 4, 2011

I was at my home crag in South Dakota and I was 12 feet above a purple link cam...it was wet...and muddy...and vegetation was all over...it was dark. My foot popped and I came to a gentle halt. I looked to my left and I was eye level with my belayer I put my feet on the ground and took a breath. you know, although complicated and may be not perfect link cams work some of the time.


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By Brian Hudson
From Greenville, SC
Dec 20, 2012
Valor Over Discretion (5.8), RRG

About a year and a half ago I had just finished a single-pitch trad course, and, like a zealous new graduate, decided to bite off more than I could chew by doing my first real trad lead at my limit with a less experienced belayer. I also decided to link the first 2 pitches but didn't carry more gear, so I ended up running it out after I realized my mistake off the ground. Got to a tough spot about 15' above my last piece and fell while I was worrying about how badly I needed to not fall. I remember being distinctly aware of the sound of the wind rushing past my ears, right before I did my best to tuck and roll off the sloped P2 belay ledge. The rope wrapped around my right calf and tightened up as I bounced off the ledge. I remember seeing my shoe flying off into the wild blue yonder.

A sprained left foot/ankle, pulled calf muscle, 3 bruised ribs, a fractured elbow, and about 45' later, I looked up and saw my shiny new .75 C4 holding in its very first placement...


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By Rob Aumer
From Wheat Ridge, CO
Dec 20, 2012
Resting after the last technical pitch.

After barn-dooring onto a blind placement at my waist, it blew and sent me 15ft onto a purple C4. When I climbed back up to the piece, I found that is had shifted, and that only two lobes were in contact with the rock. Good thing C4s are super bomber even in shitty placements.


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By jhn payne
Dec 20, 2012
"Ragin Cajun" 5.12c Jackson Falls, So Il.

Well after close to thirty years I've fell on gear a few times, first was after I just started leading and placed a stopper in a shallow crack, my partner questioned my placement but I stayed with my original placement reached for a jug which instantly blew and I was off, banged my little finger, rock nearly hit my partner and all were shaken but I got back on and led the pitch to the top, then found out I just put up a new route as the route I thought I was climbing was in another area! That fall was a defining moment in my climbing, for one I had fallen on gear I placed, second it held just fine and after a few beers I was ready for more. Partner fell on my brand new yellow Metilious TCU which had just come on the market, did its job in shallow sandstone we were psyched. There were others but all was fine, did get hurt on a sport route though, blowing the first clip.


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By Aaron O
From Seattle, WA
Dec 20, 2012
Angel's Crest

This was a fall I belayed for, but my buddy Dave and I were climbing the Vampire at Tahquitz in socal, and he was on the crux on the top of the bat crack pitch. He had placed a metolious "blue" tcu and climbed up about 10' to the bolt just below the finish. He was pumping out and only had enough energy to 1) clip the bolt, or 2) go for the glory and make the move. He chose #2 and ended up botching the move! He took probably a 35' whipper and disappeared from my view behind a ledge. With not much ability to move I couldn't take in as much slack as I would have liked but, he ended up not even close to the ledge which was a HUGE relief. Moral of the story, those cams are strong! If placed well...


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By BighornAdams
Dec 20, 2012

I was climbing what I thought to be an easy pitch, and was running it out a little bit. About fifteen feet above my last piece, my huge jug handhold ripped out of the wall and I fell 35-40 feet. It was an old school #1.5 forged friend that caught me, and in Smith Rock tuff of all things. We were two pitches up and I stopped my fall right next to my belayer. After quick damage control we just looked at each other and laughed. Oh the joys of climbing. I got right back onto the pitch and we climbed several more to finish the climb.


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By Davis Stevenson
From Flagstaff, Arizona
Dec 22, 2012
Following up a new route out in the Mojave Desert.  Info coming soon maybe?  Fun 5.10 hands and fingers.

I was leading my first multi-pitch Trad route in Sedona and had a BD #5 Nut tucked under a roof with a double length runner and fell twice trying to pull the roof, both times stopping eye level with the sketchy #4 C4 I placed 10ish feet below the roof. My follower cleaned it and said it came out with ZERO effort pulling 90 degrees from the fall direction.

Also, just about every time I place a tricam I feel good about it. One time my partner was mad that I got one stuck, and I remember having to dig it out for what felt like 10 minutes while a freak lightning/rainstorm moved in on us...


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By Ken Duncan
Dec 22, 2012

First fall on a #2 Lowe Ball was a 10 footer on Indian Creek sandstone. Held no prob.


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By Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Dec 22, 2012
old 1/4" bolt.

Sorry to disappoint, but good small gear does often BLOW. I had a partner deck from 30 ft up. We spent 4 hrs in High Desert Hospital getting him poked, prodded, X-rayed and fully assessed before he walked out with a few bumps and bruises. He sketched while transitioning from a layback to thin face. All 6 pieces ZIPPERED, but what impact each piece held before failing kept him upright, so he landed on his feet and tumbled. The gear that failed, in excellent Joshua Tree Quartz Monzonite, were three medium to small BD stoppers, two BD C3 cams, and a small Metolius Master cam. Upward pull on the lower pieces and the leaning nature of the thin crack on the lot contributed to the dismal failure of six pieces of protection. The leader was an experienced trad crack climber. HEY SHIT HAPPENS!!


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By Justin Tomlinson
From Monrovia, CA
Dec 22, 2012
Summit of Mt. Langley

Context, Ben Chap, context. You have officially gone off topic.

Anyhow, what route did your friend zipper six pieces from in Jtree?


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By Ryan Huetter
From Mammoth Lakes, CA
Dec 22, 2012
From Mountain Magazine (Bruce Carson's first clean ascent of Sentinal Rock's West Face)


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