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Falling on gear success stories! (Where the rock didn't completely blow out)
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By jellis
From Washington, East and West
Jun 6, 2011
Took a 15-20 foot 'surprise fall' on a 3.5 forged friend yesterday. God damn I love forged friends.

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By chuck claude
From Flagstaff, Az
Jun 6, 2011
First climb after knee surgery
I'm of the point of view that this thread is silly. Of course it holds, unless the rock completely explodes out (ie: solft sandstone), it holds pretty well holds pretty good whippers.

I belayed a guy who is 180lbs on a pretty good whipper on Shotgun at Paradise Forks when he whipped onto the metolius equivelent of the BD purple 00 C3 (whiich is the piece I place there). I also belayed him when he took a 25fter on Paradise Lost at Paradise Forks on a Metolius (placed where I place a purple BD 0.5 C4.

While doing Terminator at the Waterfall I kept missing a key footchip at the upper crux and took enough whippers to be embarressed about it (I am officially trying out for the NFL as a punter). This entailed 15-20fters onto a blindly placed green BD 0 C3 (since I was using a 9.1mm, the stretch made it feel like 25ft.

I find the thread silly because if a piece fails it was either the rock failed (ie: soft sandstone) or most likely driver error (the vast majority of the cases).

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By kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Jun 6, 2011
Birds and Beards
Perfect argumentative essay format.

Intro w/ thesis -> specific example in body paragraphs -> conclusion with restatement of thesis.

your english teacher would be proud!

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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Jun 13, 2011
Placed a #5 sized older nut off my partner's rack as my first piece, whipped on it. When I got back to the ground he responded "wow, I booty'd that a while ago, did you see how messed up the swage is?" Pretty sure I got the first fall in 10+ years on it. It worked.

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By J.J
Jun 13, 2011
chuck claude wrote:
I'm of the point of view that this thread is silly. Of course it holds, unless the rock completely explodes out

I think you're silly...I revised the name of the thread to suit your taste.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Jun 13, 2011
A few years back I was cranking up this flared tips lieback on Challenger in Red Rock- I didnt have any cams small enough for it, so I fiddled in this #4 HB and went for it. About 10' above it as my fingers slid into the lock my feet popped and I went for the ride. I was thinking the whole time that it was going to be the big one- 60-70' or so to the good camalot far below but damned if that tiny nut held like a champ.

I'm still shocked it held- it was in soft red rock that should have blown. Good karma that day. Sent the pitch next go.

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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
Jun 13, 2011
Had one cam rip on me at poohs corner in vedauwoo. As I climbed past it stood on it accidentally witch of course made a bomber placement turn into a big? So I kept climbing and while I was placing my next cam my hand blew and I went sailing. The peice I stood on blew and my first cam (that I thank god placed high) a #3 c4 caught my inverted fall just before my head hit the ground. I hen stood up on tiptoes and said off belay completely unhurt. That #3 is my favorite cam ever. And that was probably like. 15 to 20 foot whip

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By Trav W.
Jun 13, 2011
check out this video. Ron takes a fall on a 000 C3. The placement is not ideal but it still holds.

karstendelap.com/karstendelap/...

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By john strand
From southern colo
Jun 13, 2011
jamesellis wrote:
Took a 15-20 foot 'surprise fall' on a 3.5 forged friend yesterday. God damn I love forged friends.

AMEN

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By "H"
From Manitou Springs
Jun 13, 2011
Axes glistening in the sun
I love the idea of this post. Most often we're hearing all the negative stuff. Sometimes it gets to the point that you hear so much negative stuff that one would start to think that that is all that happens.

Anyway years ago I fell on a #2 BD nut. A short fall but there wasn't much rope out. Solid.

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By Tom Mulholland
From #1 Cheese Producing State!
Jun 13, 2011
Whiskey-a-Go-Go
I took two 30 footers. One onto an undercammed #1 Mastercam, and one onto a small DMM offset nut. The nut I expected to hold, but not that cam.

I've probably taken 10-12 falls on gear so far, and haven't popped any pieces (not including those that got "back-cleaned" by rope drag!) Place well, then climb with confidence!

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By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Jun 15, 2011
Toofast
1Eric Rhicard wrote:
Last project my buddy Geir and I worked we jumped off on to a 00 TCU multiple times to convince ourselves it was good. We would climb up to the next good hold and placement then jump. We both went 20-25 feet. After that we could climb to that next placement with no fear. We still fell on it some more but we were not scared. Of course we had bomber pro between us and the ground. I rarely ever push my limit if I don't have 2 good pieces between me and the ground. When my buddy Jesse got into trad he got on a bolted crack, put in a lot cams some that looked good and a lot that looked like they would never hold. Then he jumped with bolts as backup and they all held. He is still scared of trad but he at least knows what can be a good placement.


Eric speaks the truth. :)

I love pushing my limit over solid gear. Sometimes I'll push my limit over not-so-good gear if I have a good piece somewhere below me to prevent really bad fall. I've yet to see a good placement pull in a fall.

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By shawn bradley
Jun 15, 2011
scared to climb over bad pro? maybe your'e just scared to climb.
I'm out of beer

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By WadeM
Jun 15, 2011
Ultimate Squeeze
30 footer onto my .5 the other weekend! I love you bd

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By jellis
From Washington, East and West
Jun 16, 2011
I feel like as climbers we always exaggerate the size of our falls. It's amazing how many people took 30-footers right around the time this was posted!

I actually just took an 80-footer onto a copperhead about ten minutes ago.

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By Toby Butterfield
From Portland, OR
Jun 16, 2011
Fear and Loathing.
I fell from like two feet above a purple C4 the other day. First fall on gear! Whooo!

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By jellis
From Washington, East and West
Jun 16, 2011
I like Toby.

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By csproul
From Davis, CA
Jun 16, 2011
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the backgrou...
I placed a stopper in a small flake last weekend, just before the crux of the route. As I climbed by, I thought, "just don't kick the stopper out on your way by". I then proceeded to do just that. In haste, I placed another stopper in front of me. It wasn't a great placement. You know, the kind that sets on 2 points of the stopper and allows it to rotate easily. I didn't think it was very good, but I had a good cam about 10 ft below the previous stopper and it was a fairly clean steep face, so I kept climbing. As the questionable stopper was at my feet, I came off. I was somewhat expecting it to pull and to go for a longer ride, but the stopper held fine and it ended up being a short fall with gear around my feet.

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By NickinCO
From colorado
Jun 16, 2011
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
took my 3rd fall the other day on the first pitch of pear buttress at Lumpy learning to crack climb (first crack ever) took a 10'er on a .75 c4. fun times and I love granite.

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By ElGringo
From denver
Jun 17, 2011
Humans fail infinitely more than our gear. Address the real threat, not what we create as "untrustworthy". The system is designed to work, and it does, assuming there's no pilot error that is.

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By Russell Bangert
Jun 30, 2011
I'm going out to practice falling on gear this evening. I've never fallen in the 6 months I've been doing this, and I climb 5.10. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

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By Josh Olson
From madison, wisconsin
Jul 8, 2011
Looking at a 5.7 crack with Nick
Took what I was hoping to be a 10 foot fall onto a tipped out #1 power cam that ended up being a 20 footer onto a #4 powercam. Didn't need courtesy slack after that, feet were on the ground. Gosh, that #4 held like a dream.

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By josh holmes
Jul 8, 2011
a picture of rocks
took a good one on a slung chockstone, solid 2 body lengths above it when i fell.
i thought the webbing was white, after a closer inspection, a light pink.
then after the fall and a bit of scrutiny i realized it was originally red.

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By Josh Cook
Jul 8, 2011
The Illustrious Super Crack
Grey TCU held after a 20 footer in Cochamo...but then I was dumb enough to try it again and it didn't hold the second time.

TCU after the whip.
TCU after the whip.



Bent TCU
Bent TCU

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By jay durbin
Aug 9, 2011
me at the belay of bloody nose i believe
Just took my first "real" whipper, of about 20-25 feet on an orange #3 i think rock empire cam, and came about three feet from decking. besides some rope burns and my right shin rashhed up a bit,and my anke a bit sore, I was fine, it held great. I was above it a good 6 or so feet trying to clip into another cam I had placed really high above me, all wile having bad feet and and my tips in a tiny crack with my forearm pasted(so I thought) in a big flaring crack. Well devil's lake quartzite doesnt adhere well to sweat, so I popped out and fell. Great time, especially since I didnt deck and walked away.
Other than that Ive taken a few shorter falls on my smaller cams. they have all held. Sure gald too, since it always seems to be my first peice, a ways up the rock to the only placement! thank god, or yvon chouinard and the other gear inventors! It had to be scary climbing old school on actual nuts slung with cord. or imagine climbing on gear made of cord and webbing tied in knots!!!!!

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