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Falling on gear failure stories!!!
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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
May 9, 2011
Yoda
Don't worry, it gets good.
ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?i...

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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 10, 2011
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Ouch.

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By Scott Bennett
May 10, 2011
photo by Forest Woodward
When I was learning to trad climb, my friend Zack told me that it's not cool to get hurt rock climbing...


... unless you're British

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By MorganH
May 10, 2011
Hank Caylor wrote:
Don't worry, it gets good. ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?i...


Why did he bother with the rope?

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By BASE99999
May 10, 2011
It was the pajama pants. They caught a gust of wind and pulled the dude right off.

Or that the belayer doesn't care. Is that him laying down and handling the rope?

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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
May 10, 2011
In the traverse section, double rainbow in the bac...
BASE1361 wrote:
It was the pajama pants. They caught a gust of wind and pulled the dude right off. Or that the belayer doesn't care. Is that him laying down and handling the rope?

If you would, I dunno, maybe read the comments you would know the belayer threw himself backwards in a desperate attempt to pull up some slack and injured his shoulder.

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By Eddie Brown
From Tempe, Arizona
May 10, 2011
I was reading through the forum and there was a lot of talk about the climber not using "side runners". Anyone know how a side runner is different from a normal runner? Or what they mean by "side runner"?

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By rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
May 10, 2011
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
A side runner isn't a different type of runner. It is a piece placed off to the side of the route. A number of hard but sparsely protected routes on British crags thread their way between easier routes. In some cases, one can traverse off the harder route to place protection on either side of it; such protection is called a side runner. The climber climbs the hard route but makes use of protection opportunities that are not really on the hard route.

So, a more demanding approach is to not simply do the hard moves of the hard route, but also only use the protection opportunities that are actually on the route. In this case, the route is said to be done "without side runners."

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By BSwett
From Bend, Or.
May 10, 2011
Magestic Smith Rock with the Cascades in the backg...
That's not a 'Falling on gear failure' video. That's just a failure video.

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By Chris Knapp
May 12, 2011
BSwett wrote:
That's not a 'Falling on gear failure' video. That's just a failure video.


QFT.

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By Lanky
From Portland, ME
May 13, 2011
BSwett wrote:
That's not a 'Falling on gear failure' video. That's just a failure video.

Also kind of a success video; after all, he ain't dead or paralyzed.

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By martinharris
From Glenwood Springs CO
May 21, 2011
i know this is a trad guy area but why could they not place a bolt their to keep that route less well
deadly. maybe i just dont understand climbing R/X at your limit

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By Devin Krevetski
From West Woodstock, VT
May 21, 2011
martinharris wrote:
i know this is a trad guy area but why could they not place a bolt their to keep that route less well deadly. maybe i just dont understand climbing R/X at your limit



SHHHH, don't let Jerry Moffatt and John Dunne hear you....

They'll be wicked pissed that they didn't think of that in the first place.

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By Sam Feuerborn
From Durango, CO
May 21, 2011
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09
Martin, it's the British ethic to only place bolts when absolutely necessary, and on Grit it is almost unheard of. Trad climbing is the norm on most climbing mediums. It's pretty common to have more trad lines at a limestone crag than sport. Malham and Kilnsey are great examples, despite being world class sport climbing destinations it's about a 50:50 ratio of sport to trad climbs.

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