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Fallen Angels 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Reveley
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Jan 31, 2010
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2nd pitch.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A really fun two-pitch climb that initially runs parallel to the the one-pitch route Deception Past, Fallen Angels starts in a shallow, licheny, left-facing, left-leaning corner about 10 feet left of two pine trees that are very close to the wall. Its second pitch ascends an obvious, right-facing corner through the roof above.

P1. Lieback the corner for a couple moves before moving to the face and a thin crack above. From here, climb toward a diminutive white pine beneath a roof, where some pro can be had. Sack up and make your way into the crux seam, clipping two bolts along the way to lower-angle ground. Belay off some webbing and trad gear at a decent stance beneath a bulge, 5.10b, ~ 80'.

P2. Climb through the bulge, and a second one, to gain a very shallow, right-facing corner (RPs, offsets helpful) and climb the face around the crack until you're in the base of the big corner. Stem, fingerlock, and lieback your way up the awesome corner until the roof forces you to escape left to a ledge with bolts, 5.10a/b, ~ 90'.

Rappel from these anchors to a second set at the top of Deception Past, from which a second rappel can be made to the ground.


Location 

Fallen Angels ascends a shallow, left-facing, left-leaning corner about ten feet left of two pines that are immediately in front of a a cleaner, left-facing corner. It appears a bit lichen-y, but the climb leaves the dihedral quickly. The first crux of the route is identified by locating two bolts left of a seam about 40 feet up the wall. The second pitch climbs the large, right-facing corner at the left margin of the large roof system in the middle of the wall.


Protection 

Bust out the small stuff for this route. P1 goes on microcams - TCUs/C3s from 00 up - and RPs, and the first part of P2 takes small cams and offset micronuts. The finishing corner protects well with nuts - there are a placements for a #2 and #3 Camalot on P2, but one could easily rack only micro cams and nuts for this climb.



Photos of Fallen Angels Slideshow Add Photo
On the 9+ slab and thin crack section of the second pitch.
On the 9+ slab and thin crack section of the secon...
The top part.
The top part.
In the awesome dihedral of the upper 2nd pitch.
In the awesome dihedral of the upper 2nd pitch.
On the first pitch.
On the first pitch.
Second pitch dihedral.
Second pitch dihedral.
Jay on the first pitch, well, we did it in two.
Jay on the first pitch, well, we did it in two.
Comments on Fallen Angels Add Comment
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By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

You have some of the facts off in your description. Fallen Angels is a two pitch route and does have a first pitch anchor at a nest of webbing below a roof that is easily backed up. Most people link it with the second pitch which continues through the large, right-facing corner to a roof and use the bolt anchors there to belay. The crack system to the right is actually Deceptions Past, the real start to Equinox starts about 100 feet to the left around the corner up the slabby ramp. Most start Equinox with Fallen Angels or Deceptions Past as they are much more enjoyable climbing. FA by Chris Reveley.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

That nest is mostly tat. Also the bolts that can be reached easily are above a great ledge instead of slippery dihedral. Rappel back down to this anchor with a single rope, then to the ground.

I'm going to have to look at the Ken Trout book, but I recall him calling the lieback finger crack between the two trees a dozen feet to the right of the start of Fallen Angels the start of Equinox... Either way a good route. And those not 1/4 in. bolts (as stated in guide) (probably thanks to Kevin!) are looking pretty good and have held a fall!

By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Feb 1, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

That's because those bolts are bomber 12mm Petzl Longlifes, not 1/4 inchers.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 16, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

You definitely need small stuff on the first pitch. I wish I had doubles in small cams. The belay for the first pitch, if you do it in two pitches, is not on a very good ledge, but there is a sling anchor and a few cam placements.

By Kevin Presley
From: Loveland
Feb 17, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

After the sling nest, I used a #0.75, #1, #2 Camalot and a whole mess of stoppers.