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Fallen Angel 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 330'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Josh Wharton, Josh Thompson, August 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,039
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Aug 12, 2009

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Josh Wharton leading the crux first pitch. Photo ...

Description 

Pitch 1: Start off the ledge system. Start by liebacking up a short flake wedged in a crack. Reach up and place gear in another flake above. Then climb up and right onto a good ledge at the base of the corner proper. Climb the crack in the corner. The left hand wall is lined with an interesting calacite. Power up this corner using stemming and handjams. When the corner arches left, step out right on a large foot hold. Climb the 8 foot finger crack through perfect granite. You will then gain a rest in an alcove. Pass a roof either on the left or via a hand traverse above the roof. Climb the golden corner above passing 2 protection bolts. Belay at 2 bolts on a good ledge. 5.11d, 100 feet.

Pitch 2: The Arete crack. Step left and begin climbing the obvious crack just right of the edge of the buttress. A couple of steep finger locks will get you to the beautiful hand crack. Climb the Hand crack as it gets wider, passing a couple of solid flakes in the crack. When you reach the roof surmount it on the left. Belay at 2 good bolts on a very nice ledge. 5.9+, 75 feet.

Pitch 3: Step right and climb the inside, left-facing corner. Stemming and unique body postions will get you up the pitch. Belay on a HUGE ledge from 2 bolts in the next section of cliff. 5.9, 80 feet.

Pitch 4: Lieback up the obvious line left of the anchor. There are several key rests. Nearing the top of the crack, step left onto a stance. Climb the face above the stance, passing a bolt, up and right. Pull onto a ledge. One more short, bouldery move puts you on the final big ledge. Belay from 2 bolts. 5.10, 75 feet.

A 10 foot scramble leads to the summit.


Location 

The route is located on the first major buttress you come to. The route climbs the left side of the Buttress. To Reach the start do some exposed scrambling up grassy ledges, with a final bouldery move to gain the large starting ledge.


Protection 

RPs: 1 set.
1X green Alien.
2X Yellow Alien.
2X Red Alien.
2X #0.75 Camalot.
1 each #1 to #3 Camalots.
Optional #4 Camalot.



Photos of Fallen Angel Slideshow Add Photo
Thompson getting into the crux face on pitch 4.
Thompson getting into the crux face on pitch 4.
Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1.
Josh's left hand is on the small stance that you step left on to gain a short section of face climbing. Pitch 4.
Josh's left hand is on the small stance that you s...
This picture shows the beautiful 2nd "Arete crack" pitch.It starts off the obvious ledge.
This picture shows the beautiful 2nd "Arete crack"...
Josh Wharton climbing the first pitch. <br />Dan Gambino photo.
Josh Wharton climbing the first pitch.
Dan Gambino...
Following pitch 4.
Following pitch 4.
Wharton climbing the last crux near the top of pitch 1.
Wharton climbing the last crux near the top of pit...
Topping out teamwork stylee!
Topping out teamwork stylee!
Comments on Fallen Angel Add Comment
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Aug 12, 2009

The name of this route, like its neighbor " Noth'n but a good time" comes from the songs of the same titles by the 1980's hair band Poison. Yes I like them, yes you can laugh.

But the name has taken on another meaning to me as 2009 has been such a terrible year for the loss of great climbers.

I want to raise a glass for:
Jonny Copp
Micah Dash
Wade Johnson
Bruce Hildebrand
John Bachar
Craig Luebben

Gentlemen, thank you.

josh

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 4, 2011

Just did this again the other day...wow it really is good, and hard.

You might want a couple more small cams than listed.
Also, maybe 4 or 5 of the mid-sized nuts...maybe.

josh

By superjosh
Jul 12, 2011

This is an excellent route on great rock. The first pitch is awesome and significantly more difficult than the rest, but it's easy to pull on gear if you run into trouble in one of several 5.11 sections. Worth it for the splitter hands through golden granite on the second pitch!

Props to J. Thompson for finding and equipping a cool line off the beaten path.

By mike schlauch
Jun 30, 2012

Great route! A lot of hard climbing. It's possible to stay left in the obvious undercling on p1 instead of stepping right into the finger crack. Consider roping up for the exposed bouldery traverse approach, or climb the corner directly below p1 at 5.7 or so. Do a route on the Black Wall and then walk over here for a full day.