Falled on Account of Strain
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Falled on Account of Strain is a great climb that culminates in a huge roof finish. This is one of the easiest lines up the Slime Wall, but it's no gimmie.
Start about 100' right of Simple Suff and 20' left of April Showers, at a thin crack/seam.
P1: Head up a nice but runout face left of the seam/crack to a bolted anchor. 5.9+, 80'.
P2: Belay, or continue up and right to the massive roof. It's difficult to discern exactly where to pull this roof, but you basically have to do a very big move off a small undercling to reach up over the roof. Once you do this crux move, you'll see some fixed pins that reassure you that you're going the right way. Continue to the belay/rap anchor. 5.10b, 80'.
Rappel 100' with one rope.
Standard Rack. #3 Camalot useful for a wide horizontal crack on the first pitch.
|Photos of Falled on Account of Strain Slideshow
Pulling the last lip
Rich Gottlieb after traversing right low down on P...
Rich Gottlieb after the hard moves on P1.
Rich Gottlieb on the roofs, linking P1 and P2.
Rich Gottlieb backing up the pin above the second ...
In the P2 overhangs
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Eric Ratkowski contemplating his near-term future.
Divnamite going up the first overhang
|Comments on Falled on Account of Strain
|By Denis O'Connor|
Apr 13, 2006
This excellent route is even better when climbed as a single pitch. To do so, it's easier to take a straight line up to the roof rather than heading left to clip the bolt belay atop P1 and then traversing back right.
|By David Stowe|
Aug 11, 2008
This route brings a smile to my face every time I do it. Just about as much fun as you can have on a one pitch route. Do it as one pitch, not at all necessary to break it up into two. After you get your gear in, in the middle of the huge overhangs, take a look around and soak in the great exposure. Don't be intimidated by the size of the overhang. Just imagine how good the holds have to be for a roof of that size to be 10b.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 13, 2011
At 5'2", this shorty had no difficulty pulling the roof(s). Awesome climb. P1 is a bit scary, run out and slabby
Aug 17, 2011
I can't belive that a roof like that is 5.10b
Just don't get sucked into traversing far right at second overhand- i did (there is a well chalked up, good holds horizontal). Just a bit right of the bolt and reach.
|By Michael G|
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Paul - it's a pin, not a bolt.
|By Kalil Oldham|
From: NY, NY
Oct 22, 2011
It's all there, but a really tough on-sight climb. I hung at the roof - but loved it still!
|By Carl A|
From: brooklyn, ny
Apr 18, 2013
Nobody commented on the beginning runout. A 5.9 move at 15+ feet off the deck could break your ankles, but is a lot of fun for sure. Did i miss some gear before the hand traverse? All and all a stellar route and mind blowing as my first clean gunks 5.10!
I too went too far right on the last roof and ended up pumped, brushing dried grass off crimps until I went down and got back left.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13
The Williams guidebook describes the first pitch as starting with 5.6 R face climbing "a few feet" left of the thin seam. Maybe I'm a sissy but we could not find any such thing. Ended up doing a LONG traverse in from the left(5.7ish) to avoid the apparent 5.8+/5.9 moves 15' off the deck. Once you get the .75 in the horizontal it's fun crimpy 5.9 into some more run out 5.7 to a horizontal and then the bolts. Pitch 2 is pumpy and fun. I took a fall onto the piton from the last lip. You could back it up if you have more endurance than me.
|By Ross Exler|
From: New York
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
I linked the two pitches, going straight up as described by Denis. No need to go left to the anchor and then back right. With my 70m rope, my partner was able to do a single rope rap from the top, with a few feet to spare.
Nov 15, 2013
Man, what a route. Definitely do it in one pitch. Big smiles, thumping pulse. Made my day.