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It gets better each time I climb it, a definite sign of a Vedauwoo Classic. Essentially the last route left (facing the rock) accessed from the top of the Clam Shell, it begins with an unprotected 30' traverse to a flake/pocket where a shakey #3 Camalot can be placed. Then its up thin edges past three bolts. The concensus is the crux comes after the 3rd bolt - before placing a #1 Camalot in an undercling/crack. Mount the small overhang using crystals and belat at the chains. NOTE: You have a choice of second pitches that begin near the belay if you choose. See the guidebook or vedauwoo.org for details.
It's a mixed climb, three bolts plus at least 2 cam placements. Take 3 QDs, a #1 and #3 Camalot plus whatever you'll need at the 2 bolt and chain anchor at the top. A 60m rope is recommended, especially for the rap off.
|By Darin Lang|
Sep 18, 2001
Skip might get harassed by the Laramie crowd, but in my book this climb deserves an S rating. The first 30 feet, while easy (5.7ish), requires a bit of mental fortitude. I could not put it any better than the guidebook: "The exposure is immediate and a fall unthinkable." Agreed that the crux is after the third bolt. My experience was climb ... reach ... sketch ... whip ... repeat. Further evidence for Steve's hypothesis that Vedauwoo is a native word for "sandbag."
|By Steve Levin|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2002
I agree with Skip, this is a classic route. I also agree with Darin, it has the feel of an "s" route, although the crux climbing is well-protected. A #1 or 2 Camalot can be used at the shaky flake down low in addition to the #3 Camalot. Have a #0.75 Camalot in your teeth, ready to plug into the overlap after the crux face climbing. The chain anchor really should be replaced- it's one of those jobbies with the chain links over the stud, held in place with a nest of washers. Maybe it could hold a truck, but an outward pull could shear the washers off. Next time there I'll remember to bring hangers, if no one beats me to it.
|By Joe Collins|
Sep 29, 2003
At Eldo this would get an 'S'. The crux is "protected" but a fall moving to the undercling, which is the crux, could be unpleasant. If you are really tall, you can reach high and place a cam in the undercling before the most insecure move. If the climb is being seconded, place a directional yellow or red alien in the horizontal above the undercling... the anchors are well to the climber's right of the place where you pull the bulge.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 21, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Excellent, really fun route! A bit creepy, but fun!
When I lead the route, I went up the overhang pretty close to my pro. There are a couple of good nubs and some high feet to pull thru. When I TR'd the route to clean I went further right to the larger nub / rock that is more directly under the anchor. Does anybody know which section is correct?
I lead Gunga Din the day before Fall Wall, and the crux of fall wall felt harder to me. Maybe I was just tired but it definitely felt tough... possibly due to rock polishing from more traffic?
|By Craig Childre|
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jan 17, 2014
If a fall is 'unthinkable', then IMHO, it should get an R rating, very least the PG-13. I've not seen the 'S' designation anywhere before?
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Jan 24, 2014
As far as I can tell, the "S" (alongside "VS") rating was a creation of Richard Rossiter for his big-three books (Eldo, BoCan, Flatirons) that ended up being the Front-Range expression of R (and X, respectively). Since most Vedauwoo climbers are Front-Range climbers, the usage is well understood amongst them.