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Fall on Limelight in the Gunks
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By Jarred Peterholf
Oct 10, 2011
Sticking the toss!

Anyone know how the guys is doing that took a fall at the Gunks on Saturday? He had to be rescues as he hit his head pretty hard...


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By Ksween
From Wakefield, RI
Oct 10, 2011

Jarred, Im pretty sure hes gonna be fine. I was the person up there with him on the GTledge... He wasn't showing signs of a severe head injury... he was pretty bruised up but im pretty sure he didnt have any injuries more severe than a fractured ankle.
I would love to hear from the victim or one of his friends to see how he made out.


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By TheIceManCometh
From Albany, NY
Oct 10, 2011
Chiller Pillar, Adirondacks

How far did he fall? Did he hit a ledge?


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By Ksween
From Wakefield, RI
Oct 10, 2011

He fell about 35 feet after a green alien popped onto a low angle slab. Major ouch...


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By Jarred Peterholf
Oct 10, 2011
Sticking the toss!

Bummer, hope he is recovering well!


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By David Velez
Oct 11, 2011

Best wishes and speedy recovery to the climber, and big props to the rescuers!

Interesting to hear about the green Alien. I used to be a big fan of Aliens, until I popped both my green and blue Aliens on a lead fall at Profile in NH. Granted, I put them behind a small little flaring flake, and I knew this was not an ideal placement (only option). But still, it was pretty unnerving to pop two pieces on my first lead fall. I wound up decking, but thankfully I was only 12-15' off the ground. Plus my first piece, a black Alien, did hold. I think this actually did catch some weight, and my decking was due to rope stretch.

End result: I retired the green and blue Aliens, and bought a 0 and 1 MasterCam to replace them.

Anyone else have similar issues with Aliens?


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By TarikaM
From New York, NY
Oct 11, 2011
Climbing at the gunks

That's the first fall I've seen actually, poor guy looked really out of it. Glad you were at hand to help Kevin, let us know if you hear anything on how he's doing.


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By TheIceManCometh
From Albany, NY
Oct 11, 2011
Chiller Pillar, Adirondacks

Wishing him a speedy recovery.

@Velez: I'll take your green & blue Aliens!


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By SethG
Oct 12, 2011

Any update on the climber's condition? I wish him a complete recovery.

I am curious about the location of the fall. I read the "low-angled slab" to be the part of the route just above the overhang that is ten feet or so above the GT Ledge. If that's right, then I'm guessing he fell from the traverse just before the end of the second pitch?

Was he held by the fixed pin? Or did he have another piece above the pin? Just trying to visualize what happened, thanks.


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By Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Oct 12, 2011
onsight soloing Atman

David Velez wrote:
Best wishes and speedy recovery to the climber, and big props to the rescuers! Interesting to hear about the green Alien. I used to be a big fan of Aliens, until I popped both my green and blue Aliens on a lead fall at Profile in NH. Granted, I put them behind a small little flaring flake, and I knew this was not an ideal placement (only option). But still, it was pretty unnerving to pop two pieces on my first lead fall. I wound up decking, but thankfully I was only 12-15' off the ground. Plus my first piece, a black Alien, did hold. I think this actually did catch some weight, and my decking was due to rope stretch. End result: I retired the green and blue Aliens, and bought a 0 and 1 MasterCam to replace them. Anyone else have similar issues with Aliens?


Poorly placed or suspect gear is more likely to pull regardless of type or manufacturer. I've taken around 40 falls on blue, green, yellow, gray, and red aliens. The falls ranged from 5-30 feet. The only time the gear pulled was because the placement sucked.


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By Ksween
From Wakefield, RI
Oct 12, 2011

[SethG
Any update on the climber's condition? I wish him a complete recovery.

I am curious about the location of the fall. I read the "low-angled slab" to be the part of the route just above the overhang that is ten feet or so above the GT Ledge. If that's right, then I'm guessing he fell from the traverse just before the end of the second pitch?

Was he held by the fixed pin? Or did he have another piece above the pin? Just trying to visualize what happened, thanks.]

Seth you are exactly right about where he landed. The piece that pulled was an alien placed just above that first crux pull onto the flake. I know you can usually get a bomber nut in there, but IDK where you could get a great cam in. I dont think he was quite up to the pin yet based on the gear that was still on the wall.


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