Fall of the Golden Boy  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Julian Poush, Shane Miller, Fall 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Orphaned on Jun 17, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Fall of the Golden Boy shares the first 15 feet of slabby climbing with its neighbor Two Skinny Js. Fall of the Golden Boy splits off to the right in an overhanging hand and finger crack in a left-facing dihedral. After 20 feet, it then rejoins Two Skinny Js for easy face climbing to hands and offwidth in a flared, right-facing dihedral.

This route is named for a massive whipper that Shane caught on Dillingham Blues in Fremont Canyon. His friend the "Golden Boy" whipped huge, ripped out all his gear, factored two on the anchor and hit the water.

Protection 

Single set of cams from 00 Metolius up to #5 Camalot, with doubles in hands and fingers. 1 Standard set of stoppers. 3-5 single length runners.

Location 

Fall of the Golden follows a crack system on the far right side of the south east face of Blair 1. to the left of it is Two Skinny J's, Crack of the Dudac, and Crack of the Dudac Direct (in that order). A bit further to the left is located Another Cryptorchid, Your Nuts, Scrotum, and East Face Direct (in that order, these climbs are all listed in the Robert Kelman guide). Fall of the Golden Boy is the last continuous good looking crack system on the right side of the wall.

Build an anchor. Walk off.