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Fall Mountain (Cheshire County)

Original Post
JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

I was wondering if anyone was familiar with the Fall Mountain area north of Keene NH? Was hiking/climbing there the other day and was very impressed by the quality and quantity of the climbs there. We even put up what we believe to be a first ascent (required some tree cutting and much scrubbing!!!). Really fun 5.5 trad arete climb. There were numerous bolted sport routes and an impressive slab. Huge boulders and even some caves to play with. Does anyone have info to share on this area?

Hiking was dangerous at times because of a thick bed of leaves which blanket the mountain, making footing very slippery. We explored three tiers of cliffs/crags and they just kept on going!!! A lot of cleaning would be required, but there could be well over 100 routes here! Rock was schist with quality ranging from very very solid to very very scary.

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

Post this question up to newenglandbouldering.com and wait for the shitstorm. It was talked up big by someone several years ago, but it's basically a big chosspile covered with leaves. Plus, if I remember right, the bolting is kinda shoddy (in terms of placement, don't know about how well-installed they are).

JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

I'm not much of a boulderer, and can't say that I even saw that much bouldering there, but some of the roped climbing was really good with some cleaning. Going back to try the bolted climbs soon, but they looked spaced out, but decent. There was definitely some hiking involved to get to the upper crags, but we did find climbs up top as well.

New England Bouldering does mention over 200 problems, but I suspect that number might be inflated. There is a lot of chossy, crumbled rock, but some fine gems hidden among them as well. Definitely in need of a lot of work, and not a destination crag, but could be a fun little local climbing area for Keene.

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

The bouldering there is definitely not very good. I only know the bolted lines by reputation, and I've actually never been to the upper areas on the mountain. It'd be great for the decent climbing to be cleaned up!

JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

The one we cleaned last week kinda reminded me of Disneyland in the Gunks.... shorter (about 60-70 feet high) but it still had some cool exposure. Would love to hear from some locals about maybe getting together to clean this place up a little and put up some new lines. There were also two newer, bolted steep climbs probably in the hard 10 range.... so there is still a bolting effort going on there

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Fall Mtn in VT was really overated... Fall in Keene ?? I would talk to Base

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

John, it's technically in Langdon, NH. Just north of Walpole, across the river from Bellows Falls.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

thanks lanky,, that's the shithole i remenber

Joe M · · MA and NH · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 11,725

Fall Moutain, wow, fond memories of that shithole. Talk about overhyped choss pile...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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