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Morning Glory Spire
Routes Sorted
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Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Incisor T 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Fall Line 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Rhodes, 1989
Page Views: 4,164
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 13, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Fall Line. Unknown climber.

Description 

This is the most popular sport climb on the Morning Glory Spire. Start just right of Syline 5.8. If you straighten out the line, it is 5.10c. If you zig and zag on the good holds, it is only 5.10a.

Follow a right facing corner, until you hit a slab. The slab is a little runout. Fun face climbing is had above. Head right to ease the grade. Finish on a small bulge right before the anchors.


Protection 

draws



Photos of Fall Line Slideshow Add Photo
A.M. nearing the top of Fall Line on Morning Glory Spire.  City of Rocks.
A.M. nearing the top of Fall Line on Morning Glory...
Cecily nearer the top
Cecily nearer the top
Scott reaching for a clip
Scott reaching for a clip
Cecily further up
Cecily further up
Cecily partway up
Cecily partway up
Lauren partway up
Lauren partway up
Comments on Fall Line Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 30, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 19, 2005

Gear Alert

Climbed Fall Line on 5/12/05 during a road trip from Colorado and couldn't help but notice that both bolts at the top move a little (not the hangers, but the bolts themselves). I suspect that the rock quality has something to do with it, and after careful inspection I didn't feel that it was currently unsafe, but given more time, these anchors will need to be replaced.

By Dougald MacDonald
Aug 29, 2006

The move to the third bolt is tricky and the fall would be very ugly. Leaders breaking into 5.10 sport climbs might want to choose another route.

By Miller
Jul 6, 2009

anchor bolts are suspect, should be replaced.

By Carl Rene Pelletier
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Sep 29, 2009

In regards to getting to the 3rd bolt...a fall has the potential to tweek the climber....the moves just below the 3rd bolt are awkward....I moved straight up from the second bolt rather than going right and it seemed to be pretty easy.

By Alec
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Anchors must have been replaced, because they're now huge 1/2 inchers with massive chains.

Two cruxes.

By CLamb
Jul 25, 2011

Left hand bolt on the anchor still moves. Right hand bolt on the anchors seemed to be ok.

By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Don't be a cheater...go straight up.

Concur that the anchor bolts are a bit suspect.

By Finn the Human
From: The Land of Ooo
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

As I was climbing straight up this I was thinking, "I'm making this a lot harder than it has to be..." I'm glad there are other MPers who agree!

As far as the chains are concerned, they seemed fine to me, although I didn't really give them a careful analysis.

By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

the only thing amazing about this route was that someone could place so many bolts, and still leave the awkward crux (getting to 3rd bolt) basically unprotected with really ugly fall potential. really detracts from the otherwise good climbing.

By Wilburn
From: Boise, ID
Sep 30, 2013

I agree that the 3rd bolt is the trickiest spot mentally. Beside that glaring flaw, the route is a lot of fun. The sequencing is cryptic in spots, but the face gives you what you need to finish.