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Fall from Grace  

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jerry Handren, Chris Gill. June 1988.
Page Views: 985
Submitted By: Michael Z. on Sep 27, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: F.F.G climbs the arete on the left side of S.S.

Description 

“More than likely the nicest pure arete climb in New Hampshire. An extravaganza of desperate slapping, at the top end of the grade (12b). The bolting was a little sporty because there just weren't many clipping stances.” Jerry Handren.

My friends and I set this up off the anchor for Sinister Satisfaction. You have to belay from above but it's worth the effort, it is kind of a gem.

Climb 20 feet of S.S. then move left out a small crack gaining the face and arete. From here intricate climbing leads to a laughably small roof that will take some thought. Up the rest of the arete the beta is more straight forward. Strenuous, sustained, pinching, and laybacking with smearing feet to the top!


Location 

Same as S.S.


Protection 

There are many bolts on this route but I would have concerns with their integrity at this point. I think they are steel hex heads and are rusty and pitted. But then again what do I know I usually just clip 'em.



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By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 29, 2012

Simply put, one of the best pitches on Cannon. We attempted the f/a via Comdemned Man, down and left. Someone try linking these...11b x to a hard 12b arete....theline was rap bolted while i was away on honeymoon

By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Oct 29, 2012

Can I borrow somebody's drill so I can re-rapbolt it? Totally stunning pitch.

By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Oct 30, 2012

hats off to anyone who can re-bolt it on hooks. that would be impressive fo sho. you are right john the direct start look classy

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Dec 10, 2012

I top roped it in summer of 1988 and did it all except for the bulge. I got through the bulge after multiple slip offs. Found it on rappel and thought it was 5.11+. I thought the climb a bit monotonous having only the bulge to be different. I think I took a left turn on friction to get back right to edge again at the midway bulge. I used to climb parallel trees, legs on one tree and arms edging up the other. This climb I used a similar technique. It was very steep, exhausting pushing my way up the thing making the edge manageable for my hands close to my feet smearing. It seemed ridiculous that it could be climbed. I didn't have to deal with bolts either. The bolts should be rusted crap. I thought then in 1988 Cannon was going to become busy with climbers. It didn't happen and without regulars for climbers, many climbs, like this one, have had no maintenance. Its costly too redo climbs. I went on my honeymoon in September, John

By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 11, 2012

Monotonous, but 4 stars ?/ I can think of a few words to describe this line but monotonous isn't one of them.

Abrilliant line that i can't give stars to'cause I haven't done all of it

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Feb 24, 2013

There are many monotonous types of climbs I've done like the (Beast Flake). How about I modify it too repetitive? I didn't write mediocre. Didn't get it on the first try, I freed though after slipping off going through it's mid section. No bolt holding and no resting. I wouldn't get it free leading it without making it a project. I don't do projects.
This climb requires balance to put all power into lowest gear friction while pulling up on the rounded edge. That is mostly it in a nut shell. Much endurance and not much change in the movements up.