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Fall Equinox 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Randy Kieliszewski, James Garrett 2002
Page Views: 2,748
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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me at the chains, top rope of fall equinox

Description 

This climb is on the left end of an area of steep rock. The base is in the trees near the bottom of the "small" hill that runs throught the grassy field, north of the reservoir. There is a seep at the base. Well-protected climbing, that starts a little tricky. Frictiony hands, lead to better holds, and better angles. Rappel off.

Protection 

2 bolts for anchors and 7 draws


Photos of Fall Equinox Slideshow Add Photo
Very fun.
BETA PHOTO: Very fun.
Renee on Fall Equinox, Dam Wall, 5.8+
Renee on Fall Equinox, Dam Wall, 5.8+
Jack about half way up
Jack about half way up

Comments on Fall Equinox Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 6, 2013
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climbing - tougher than it looks and feels more like granite that quartzite. Could easily have been done as a trad route - there is a hand crack just a few feet from this at all times.
By tenesmus
Jun 22, 2006

its not 5.7?
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Yeah...after several months not climbing, I finally come back and do this thing. At a quick glance, it looked easier (although I didn't really stare at it too long) so I stuck to tennies. It was fun albeit a bit contrived (i.e. the natural and perhaps better line stays well right of the bolt line). Regardless, the bolts are very close together and well within reach of good clipping stances however you do the route. This is a great beginner lead with awesome access!

ummm...sure, you could make it harder (perhaps 5.9ish) by following the straight up bolt line,

but the natural line just seems so much more...

obvious./.
By Michael MacFadden
Aug 12, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

This route can vary in difficulty based on how you climb it. Stay in the crack to the right of the bolts all the way up to make this a 5.7. Climb the bolt route to make it more like a 5.8. Climb to the left of the bolts and you are looking at a 5.8+ or a 5.9.
By Jonathan Amburgey
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 15, 2009

Fun route with a bouldery start. Can be wet at the base, as my partner and I discovered this past weekend.
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Jul 31, 2009

Didn't like it. It's been a while, but I wasn't impressed with the bolt placement on this route. Lots of potential rope drag too. I tend to stay away from the Dam Wall all together.
By Michael Buchanan
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed the bolted route. Felt like a .7 to me, especially after climbing Fowl Play and Sin Nombre.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you start the climb by going up the crack, it is an easy 5.7. But if you pull the bouldery moves up through where the bolts are, and then stay out on the arete, it is a nice 5.8+ I didn't mind the bolt placements, though the second bolt is a HARD clip. If you fell you'd hit the deck. A stick clip would come in handy.
By suckMYbistrong
Jun 26, 2011

i worked this on top rope today, and the bottom, going up to the 2nd clip is definitely the crux. no doubt a fun climb, and once you get past it, its smooth sailing. because there was a shitload of water dripping all over the bottom of the rock, getting to the 2nd clip is super hard, you have to be very careful with your foot placement, there is moss and wet rock all over the place
By suckMYbistrong
Jun 28, 2011

sent this today..if you follow the bolts, up to the 2nd bolt is definitely a 10a, there is wet rock everywhere, and there is only 1 or 2 moves to get up
By John Martin
From: Kearns, UT
Oct 2, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Getting to the 2nd bold is more like a 5.10c, I don't know how they call this a 5.8! Also, there are 8 bolts, not 7.
By Mark Dexheimer
From: Midvale, UT
Oct 14, 2011

Great climb, but be prepared for your rope to fall in the mud when you pull it. There is a small spring coming out of the rock that keeps the left side of the route wet and muddy constantly.
By Tim Golden
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The first couple moves up to the 2nd bolt are definitely harder than 5.8 if you stay right on the bolt line. You can easily cheat off the crack to the right on this part, but the clips might be a little reachy. Stay on the bolts if you can though, it was a fun little sequence to figure out.
By Travis Haussener
Jul 14, 2012

Be a solid 5.10 climber or bring a stick clip and a crash pad...the three moves to the second bolt are difficult and pumpy at least for me. I had two choices once I made the move; grab onto the bolt for stability (I know cheating) or fall I chose the former. The rest of the route is a piece of cake after that.
By Nathan Smith
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 18, 2013

The seep at the base of the climb can freeze up in cold years and form a fun mixed line. 30 feet of ice then intermittent ice/frozen dirt in the crack above. You can use many of the bolts for pro but bring a rack from tcu's to #3 camalot as you are climbing right of the official bolt line much of the time. M5
By Brandon Ashby
From: Kamas, UT
Aug 6, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A fun bouldery start and a cruiser to the top. A little wet/mossy at the bottom, watch out for wasps. Pretty fun.