|g. V3 - Middle Earth
It's fairly likely that you'll find this route free, even on a busy weekend... Even though the gear is not perfect, and you may be cleaning piles of pine needles from the holds, there is some fun climbing to be had on this one.
Pitch 1: Climb a bulge just left of the Middle Earth crack. Head straight up, aiming for a small left arching/facing corner. Gain jugs at the top of this little corner and traverse right to a break in the little overhang. Pass a little tree on the right, and when you reach the ledge you can step right to the Middle Earth tree and belay/or rappel. This pitch is 5.7 and makes a fun climb in itself.
Pitch 2: As for Middle Earth; ~80 feet of easy low angle ledges and horizontals up to the Grand Traverse ledge.
Pitch 3: Start a little right of the last pitch Wisecrack. Work up a poorly protected face to the overhang. Pass the overhang at a little right-facing corner (mid way between where Wisecrack and Bombs Away Dream Baby cross the overhang) and up to the top.
Right of Wonderland, and just left of Middle Earth. Rap Middle Earth route from trees with slings.
Standard rack, small broom
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P1
Sep 2, 2010
Mark, can you be more specific about *which* right-facing corner this route climbs off the GT? So far as I know, it's Wisecrack on the left, next-right is Bombs Away, then comes Middle Earth's right-facing corner. Where does Faithful Journey fit in there?
It might be height, and I may have been tired, but I just about could not get off the ground here at all, and 5.7 should be well within my abilities.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Apr 30, 2012
Opening moves for about 20 feet are balancy and very committing on lead. But it's still 5.7
Great single pitch option. Felt it was overall more worthwhile than Wonderland. Several great, thin moves.