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Lower Peanuts
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Empire Strikes Back, The 
Faith, Hope and Charity 
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Star Track 
Strolling 
Tracer 
Trouble And Strife 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) 
Whiskey Gala 
Wired 
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Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Faith, Hope and Charity 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b R

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Joseph Crotty and Alex Blum
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: Joseph P. Crotty on Jun 9, 2009
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Joseph Crotty about to start into the lower diffic...

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Description 

Head-pointed over three days in late May and early June 2009 and then led all gear placed on lead. Possibly a three star route, but some suspect holds in the first half detract from the overall movement and stellar upper crux. Combination of creative body work, mental stamina, semi technical foot work and a dash of power add up to good climbing.

Climb an easy slab into the right facing dihedral. Place a few good technical cams and grapple with the tenuous and awkward lower crux. Mid crux some dubious gear can be placed. Botching the exit sequence into the rest guarantees carnage. You will not die, but it will not be pretty. (.11c R)

From a balance rest sew up the crack with medium stoppers. Fire to the arÍte and up onto the crux face. Finish on the sparsely protected face/arÍte just left of the last third of Star Wars second pitch. JIT (Just-In-Time) gear appears on the face if you search for it.

Originally TR'ed by Mark Tarrant.


Location 

Lower Peanuts between Forbidden Planet and pitch two of Star Wars. Start 50' left and 50' below the second pitch of Star Wars from a comfortable ledge below the obvious right facing dihedral. The dihedral peters out onto the arÍte and then face. Finish on the face/arÍte just to the left of the last third of Star Wars second pitch. Solid tree for anchor. Walk off uphill a bit to the Lower Peanuts/Upper Peanuts saddle.


Protection 

SR with an emphasis on technical cams and medium wires.



Photos of Faith, Hope and Charity Slideshow Add Photo
Taking a breather while assessing the gear situation just before the crux on the FA.
Taking a breather while assessing the gear situati...
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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Jun 11, 2009

Congrats on the headpoint Joe and Alex, looks like a great line I'm excited to check it out!