Fairy Ring  5.6

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Mark van Eijk on Sep 11, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Start off with a short, fun, and perhaps sandbagged crux with great hand jams and awkward body position. That's where the good times end... The second half of the climb is dirty, tedious, and the rock quality is poor. Rotten roots and grime clog the wide cracks and it seems no amount of cleaning could save this thing. The anchor bolts are easy to miss (far out right on the upper slab. If you make it to the trees, you've gone to far).

Some users on other sites have made the case that the start of this route is much harder than the guidebook proposes. It definitely requires some solid hand crack technique. While I wouldn't argue with an upgrade, it's certainly no harder than 5.7

Location 

Farthest left route at Krack Rock. Starts up the fine-looking hand crack just before the trees.

Protection 

Standard Rack with an emphasis on large hand size pieces. Easy to protect throughout, except when the crack becomes clogged with roots and grime. Crux protects beautifully. Two-bolt anchor at the top right, easy to miss.