Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Fairway

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Name Unknown" - 10a S 
Chaps My Hide S 
Creepy Hollow S 
Face To Face S 
Freakshow S 
Hole In One S 
Mojo Nation S 
My China Girl S 
Nickel Slots S 
Shall Remain Nameless S 
Sky's The Limit S 
Third Input S 

Fairway 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 6,899
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: duh on Feb 5, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
Jay on "Face To Face" (5.11d). photo by Mike Ayon

Description 

Located on the hillside to the south of and facing the south face of Raven Rocks, this northeast-facing crag is shady most of the day and a good bet for warm weather cragging. Routes here are mostly high quality With a range of difficulty from 5.9 to 5.12, something for everybody.

Good routes on this crag include, Sky's The Limit (5.10b), Mojo Nation, Hole In One, Face To Face (5.11d) and Freakshow (5.12a).


Getting There 

From the south face of Raven Rocks follow the trail that heads south and uphill into the east canyon, past The Shreen Crag and Fantasy Island.


Climbing Season


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fairway:
Mojo Nation   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hole In One   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Face To Face   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Freakshow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Fairway

Featured Route For Fairway
Jay on "Face To Face" (5.11d). photo by Mike Ayon

Face To Face 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  CA : High Desert : ... : Fairway
Start up "Hole In One" for the first 3 bolts. (longer draw on the 3 bolt helps with rope drag) Then head up and right thru steep huecos, turn the lip on thin holds and face climb to the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Fairway Slideshow Add Photo
Fairway. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Fairway.
Photo by Blitzo.
Fairway. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Fairway.
Photo by Blitzo.
Comments on Fairway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 11, 2007

We counted four routes on the right side of the canyon on the way up to the Fairway routes listed here and in the SoCal Sport Guide. The first two were on lower angled rock at the bottom of the canyon and looked like something I'd like to try. Any info available on these?
Also, the route just right of China Girl (Name Unknown in the Guide; not listed on this site) is rated 10a but seemed harder to us. Any comments on this? Perhaps it was just too continuously steep for us JT senior citizen types.
And also, there is an anchor visible on top of the next crag up and left from the existing Fairway routes, at the top of a very easy looking face, but no bolts on the face yet. What are the plans for this?
Thanks for any info anyone might be able to share.

By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
May 11, 2007

Most likely the routes you passed were either The Shreen area (located at the bottom of the canyon) or Fantasy Island which is the area directly below the Fairway. I know that the guidebook shows the Shreen as above Fantasy Island but it is wrong. The first area encountered on the trail is the Shreen, followed by Fantasy Island and lastly The Fairway.

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 11, 2007

Ah yes, Fantasy Island it is. Two of the climbs I saw must have been Minute Men Arete and Fantasia/Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. But the two I was really interested were downhill from there and not shown on the topo.
Thanks for the help.

By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
May 14, 2007

Brandt
I strongly suspect those routes are on The Shreen, Shreen (10b) on the left and Story Of J (10a) on the right

By jt512
Administrator
May 15, 2007

The two routes on low-angle rock below Fantasy Island are 10a-ish. They climb like J Tree slabs, minus the friction.

Jay

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 17, 2007

Thanks Jay and Art,
I did one route on the Shreen long ago so I know that's not it.
Yes they looked like 10aish JT type routes; I should feel right at home on them!
I was up at NJC yesterday but the heat got to me a bit. We'll limit our trips up there to late afternoon for the next few months.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 10, 2010

After calculating 60 meters, turns about to be 196 feet. This climb is 95 feet x 2 = 190 feet. So with 60 meter rope, I will only have about 6 feet of play. Would it be recommended to use 70M or 60M okay?