Fair-Weather Friend 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Nathan Hitchcock, Jon Kulikowski |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Spring, Fall |
| Submitted By: | Jon Kulikowski on Feb 2, 2013 |
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Nathan Hitchcock on the first ascent.
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Description This fun slab line follows a water flow, so it is often wet. However, don't let the water deter you from this engaging and delicate gem.
Location Start at the top of a flake just right of Water into Whine.
Protection Five bolts to ring anchors.
| Comments on Fair-Weather Friend |
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By Edward Medina Administrator From: Charlotte, NC Feb 4, 2013
| Did this line go in ground up? |
By Jon Kulikowski From: Johnson City, TN Feb 18, 2013
| We rap bolted it. Then lead it full redpoint on the FA. |
By Brad Caldwell From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges Feb 18, 2013
| Bet those bolts will get chopped since it didn't go in ground up...just saying. Not really "NC ethic" in a place that's pretty entrenched in it. |
By Edward Medina Administrator From: Charlotte, NC Feb 19, 2013
| RB has a pretty good history of co-existence between rap bolted and ground up lines. I doubt anyone will chop this. Having said that, I think it's a fair (and telling) observation that you guys have put up potentially the easiest line on the Cereal Wall, and the only one to go in top down. I think you have missed a golden opportunity to add to the legacy of a dearly held tradition on something that is easily attainable for someone climbing at your ability level. |
By Brad Caldwell From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges Feb 19, 2013
| Usually rap bolted lines at the Bald have been well over the 5.10 range and anything that could be led ground up, especially in the easier lower grades, is expected to be FA'ed that way...thats why I mentioned it getting chopped. I still think this may be a retro bolt of a Sean Cobourn route he did during his 50 FA's while he was 50...the photo looks similar to one he posted during that time. Either way, I have no investment in chopping, but that doesnt mean someone else doesn't. |
By Jon Kulikowski From: Johnson City, TN Feb 21, 2013
| If this line was done before it was free-solo; After setting up the anchors I scoured the pitch for more than an hour looking for placements. The suggestion that someone would chop this line simply due to the method of bolting is absolutely appalling. My partner and I spent three days searching for a line that went. One day finding our way to the top of the cliff, rappelling cleanly to the anchor position, and another two days bolting it due to issues with the drill batteries. We used all stainless steel hardware (unlike much of the wall) and only used enough bolts to make it safe. Our desire was to contribute a line that climbers may enjoy for decades to come. Bolting on rappel enabled us to use a minimal amount of hardware, without sacrificing safety. If someone feels that they have the right to destroy our hard-fought creation for any reason then I implore them to plead their case. |
By Brad Caldwell From: Deep in the Jocassee Gorges Feb 22, 2013
| Its kind of odd that you wanted to provide the community with a new route, but yet you don't understand that community. RB has a preferred ground up style, especially on something as easy as a 5.7. What you have done was neutered that chunk of rock down to your level because you couldn't place bolts ground up, which is the accepted/preferred style for this crag. North Carolina has a long history of its preferred style and this is the standard that all developers are expected to live up to. What may be acceptable in Tennessee isn't necessarily accepted in NC. I've said it before, I don't have an investment to chop your hardware, but there are plenty of individuals that see it as disrespectful to go to a crag and not follow traditions and expected "ethics", especially when establishing routes. I can only suggest that in the future you find out about the preferred styles of any crag before you develop a new line there...its simply showing respect for those that came before you. |
By Sean Cobourn From: Gramling, SC Mar 11, 2013 rating: 5.7
| After reading the comments I just had to go climb this. Nice line. I could quibble about where the bolts are, how many there are, how they went in, and the appearance that it isn't finished since it doesn't even go to the headwall, but nah, I won't. I will however point out that it is no where near Water Into Whine. It starts above the next tree ledge a good bit further right. This is near Trix Are For Kids and left of Sugar Pop Rocks. To Jon and Nathan- Go finish it ! |
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