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 ADVANCED
Window Rock - East
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crunk Cowgirl T 
Destroy all Planets T,S 
Drunken Cowboy T 
Expect No Mercy T 
Failure to Launch T 
Good Times T 
Indian Summer T 
Juniper Jam T 
Masochist Crack T 
One Step Beyond TR 
Pure Pleasure T 

Failure to Launch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 846
Submitted By: Texaswall on Jun 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

On the east side of Window Rock is this obvious line, often climbed, but not listed in the latest Bingham guide. It shares the start (and crux) with Pocket Rocket, stays in the flaring crack until it ends, crosses directly over the horizontal gash/crack about halfway up the route utilizing face holds until a second finger-sized crack is reached. The first 3-4 moves (poor feet) are 5.9, the rest is 5.7-ish. Going from one crack to the other may provide a modest runout if protection cannot be found in the horizontal.

NOTE: If a name is in common use for this climb, let's make that change here.

Location 

This is between the alcove containing Expect No Mercy and the parallel cracks of Good Times and Pure Pleasure on the east side of Window Rock. Descend by walking north along the spacious ledge to rap anchors.

Protection 

A spot is encouraged for the start, med. - 3" gear at bottom, small - med. gear at top. Trad anchors.


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By Paddy McIlvoy
From: Hailey, ID
May 22, 2009

I've always thought of this as the "logical" Pocket Rocket. I don't know why Bingham has "Rocket" going off into the wierd unknown, but this is the obvious continuation to the pocket start. Anyway, I just call it "Pocket Rocket". One of my favorites. I work with Dave B. I'll ask him why he has the route listed the way he does.
By dave bingham
Oct 13, 2011

The original version of "Pocket Rocket"wandered way out left, but I can't imagine anyone goes out there any more. The route "Failure To Launch" is really the normal way "Pocket Rocket" is climbed. I'll try and clear things up in the 2015 guide.
By OldManRiver
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Sep 9, 2013

I recommend bringing a large cam (#4/5 C4 or comparable) to protect the traverse. And slings to minimize drag with the zig-zag the route requires.
By Ryan Hamilton
From: Orem
Apr 24, 2015

The 5.9 rating is correct for the start, after that its more like 5.7. Perfect hand cracks and flaring pods for feet. But that 5.9 start is brutal with only shallow pin scars for holds get past that and you're in for smooth sailing.
By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 23, 2015

Don't be put off by the bottom several moves. Just fire it until you reach the good gear. This thing is a good time!

There are two vertical cracks that leave the traverse. I think you're shooting for the left, cleaner of these two. It actually starts after only a couple moves of traversing, and is 10ish feet (?) secure slab above you. I traversed past the route along the increasingly mossy ledge (with increasingly secure gear) to a dirty groove. So just keep a heads up––if that traverse gets ugly and mossy, you're off route. While the slab climbing above and below the traverse is secure, with good feet, climbers at their limit will want to find gear before exiting the traverse, which can be achieved with large gear, or with a finger-sized cam in a notch. I used several offsets.
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