Login with Facebook
Cerberus Gendarme
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cave Route T 
Cherry Crack T 
Cynthia's Hand Job T 
Dire Wolf T 
Electrica T,S 
Fails of Power T 
Fat Hedral, The T 
Flip of a Coin T 
Intruder T 
Mean High Tide T 
No Holds Barred T 
Scarlet Begonias T 
Squeeze Play T 
Tales of Flails T 
Touchstone Wall T 

Fails of Power 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Randy Leavitt
Page Views: 5,562
Submitted By: Bekky on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ari Menitov on Fails of Power.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This crack is the prominent corner to the left of Scarlet Begonias. Most folks just climb to the chain anchors just above the flake, making the climb a 5.10b. The 5.11c comes past the first set of anchors and follows a finger crack over a small roof about 50 ft further.

It is fantastic! Perfect hands in the corner and then pulling the flake is a tad exposed but very fun. Very sustained classic crack climbing! Great route!


Mostly #1s and #2s all the way. A .75 is handy above the flake. A #3 may fit just below the flake too. Smaller gear will be necessary if you climb the small section. Watch your rope drag; it's a little tricky. A few slings could be helpful. Two bomber bolt anchors with chains are at the top of both pitches.

Photos of Fails of Power Slideshow Add Photo
Credit: Patrick Bardsley
Credit: Patrick Bardsley
Brad sending
Brad sending
Climbing in the sun in February.
Climbing in the sun in February.
Dave firing it off brown point stylie
Dave firing it off brown point stylie
213blc leading
213blc leading

Comments on Fails of Power Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 23, 2007

after the first set of anchors you will need (2) .75, .5, and a .4
to get you to the second set of anchors..

Earlier this summer I blew it clipping the 2nd anchor. my last piece (.4) just after the 2nd roof blew out some rock, so now it may be easier clipping the anchor because you now have a foot to tiptoe on(its still the crux!)....needless to say it was a fun, safe, scary, clean whipper
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 5, 2008

I think it should be clarified that they're talking #2 camalots. If we're talking Friends, 2-1/2 are pretty mandatory. #2s are too small and #3s require some serious cramming.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 10, 2008

fun climb- 2 camalots protect the first pitch to the roof. I don't think 1 camalots are neccesary. After the roof you could place some 1 camalots in pods- but you'll probably want you hands in there. Otherwise they (1 camalots) are too tight- 2 friends are best. Take a BD .3 for below the upper anchor.
By B Roth
From: st george, ut
Apr 26, 2009

most folks layback the flake (or bulge) which feels exposed, however it's pretty easy to keep jamming it which doesn't feel exposed at all.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Oct 7, 2014

Pulling the roof is way harder than the roof on Shunes.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Oct 7, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

^^^^ I'll second that. Shune's is more like 11b. This...is solid for the grade and maybe even harder.
By Ray Hellinger
From: Zion...for the most part
Mar 25, 2015

I'd give this 11+ (never believed in a/b/c/d ratings for trad climbs below 5.12) and that is just to pull the roof and get to the anchors. You will definitely think you are at IC on this one.....oh yeah......except for the 1,000 times better view!
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!