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Routes in 9. Basilisk
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Billy Get Your Guns T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chopper Noise T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chossy? TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crankzilla T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dragon's Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Earth Dragon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Fafnir T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flake n' Take TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzz, The T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Gentlemen Return Fire TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Hashtag, Swag, Yolo TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hound Dog TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Paper Mache TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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PROJECT T,TR 5.15c/d 9c 38 XIII- 40 E11 8c |
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Shit Load of Chips T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Testicular Trauma T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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There is No Spoon TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Too Many Video Games TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Treehugger T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
| FA: | FA TR Brian Najjar, unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,285 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 11, 2014 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Up the crack, which goes up to right-facing corner crack. Finish to big left-pointing tree (more horizontal than vertical), which is above obvious right-facing corner with wider crack.
Variation: Start up the shorter crack to the right.
warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Variation: Start up the shorter crack to the right.
warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
At the right edge of sector Basilisk is a big right-facing inside corner with a big crazy tree at its top. Left 25 ft from this is a left-facing inside corner with a shallow roof to its left a ways up. Fafnir is the slightly-left-trending crack which is about 15 ft right from the left-facing corner and about 10 ft left from the right-facing corner.
Protection
Leading: normal NY style Trad rack - (though of course not likely to need doubles on such a short route).
Top-Roping: Easiest with a long static line from a tree set back from the top of the cliff (perhaps rappel or down-climb a short ways below the top to set the carabiners lower, to avoid drag / abrasion of belay rope running over the top edge).
Or could build an anchor at the top of the route placing multiple pieces of Trad protection gear.
For more ideas about setting up Top-Rope anchor, see the area page for this Basilisk sector.
Top-Roping: Easiest with a long static line from a tree set back from the top of the cliff (perhaps rappel or down-climb a short ways below the top to set the carabiners lower, to avoid drag / abrasion of belay rope running over the top edge).
Or could build an anchor at the top of the route placing multiple pieces of Trad protection gear.
For more ideas about setting up Top-Rope anchor, see the area page for this Basilisk sector.
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