Fade To Black  5.12

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.12b/c [details] FA:  JJ Schlick, James Q Martin Season:  Spring, Summer, Fall Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

JJ Schlick on the FA.

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Description 

Fade To Black is one of the steepest routes in the amphitheater! Begin just right of the terrace where Dark Arts starts and scramble up to a low ledge. Here, a blue TCU or green Alien in a horizontal doesn't do much for pro, but will keep the next few wire placements from zippering. Slot a key, blind #5 BD overhead (currently fixed) and work past a funky low move and then into low angled, sporty left facing dihedral. Move up into a cruxy thin crack dihedral passing a solution pocket on left. Rest at a block and then move out the steep dihedral past four bolts via jams and long moves between jugs to a final crux reach to a fingerlock. Bouldery, pumpy, and classic!

Protection 

Thin pro (to 1/2"), four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed.

Photos of Fade To Black Slideshow

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During the FA	Regrouping at the block rest.	On the way down...
Mike Sokoloff getting into the crux on a very impr...	Mike S, shaking out mid crux!