|Gollum's Arch Rock
This is one of the forgotten classics at the Ridge. A bit of a sandbag at 11a- feels like a letter harder and somewhat runout as it was bolted on lead way back in '85. Also a little dirty as it has seen little action for the last decade or so. Facial Hair starts just 20' right of the mega classic Gollum's Arch at a left leaning crack just left of a big right facing dihedral (Latch Hand).
Mike Caldwell and Eli Helmuth replaced all four bolts in the summer of '05 with ASCA hardware. The first bolt, which was placed by an unknown person before the first ascent was moved down and left 3' to be in line with the rest of the route and to give even spacing between the crack gear on both sides of it. The thin horizontal crack above the first bolt has a hidden big slot just left above the bolt, and this is key as it takes a fat nut or small cam before committing to the crux slab section up to the second bolt. Steep crack climbing at the bottom and thin slab above give this route a balanced and testy feel. Scramble off to the west into the first gully for the descent- skiers right.
Four bolts, full rack of cams to #2 Camalot. Small to medium nuts.
Feb 3, 2006
This IS something of a lost classic, and well worth doing. I don't remember it being very "R", but it was a few years ago that I climbed it. Glad to hear that those old pop-rivets have been replaced.
Jul 10, 2011
Make sure you find the good nut placement in the horizontal. It's hard to miss, but somehow I did and had to fight off a freak out above it. This would probably not be rated R in Eldo, but for Lumpy it deserves the grade.