About 40 or 50 feet left of "Kill all bad brown dogs" is a deep, symmetric corner.
Make a hard move up and over a bulge into the corner to a no-hands rest. Place a red camalot and continue up past tricky stem moves and RP placements until a thank-god rail can be reached out left. Continue up to easy ground and rap or scramble up and left, then down.
A good selection of small wires and brass nuts; cams (1 ea.) up to a #3 friend.
|By Brad Bond|
May 15, 2002
We did this thing again and Eric found an easier way to do the crux. Instead of trying to stem out left, stem strait up the box and look for a finger lock up and right. Done this way the crux is entering the dihederal -- 10 or maybe 10+. Still really fun!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 27, 2002
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
I did this one while wandering around up at Diamond head, prior to figuring out what I was getting on. This, I did the route without beta or bias as to its grade.
I felt like the route was 10b/c, based on a comparison to other stemming routes. Ariel Book P1 (10d) is much harder, and no better protected. The Green-Spur dihedral section (9+) and Over The Hill P1 (10a)& P2 (10b) are also easier.
If I'd not found the key time to step to the right into the sidepull, I'd have had to find a harder sequence, I am sure. As for protection, it seems adequate enough, but you need to be sure of the pieces you get, which will include some quite small pcs (#00 HB anchor, for example). The route would be what I refer to as "S-" This means the route CAN be adequately protected. The question is, are you solid enough on the climb to play around with it and get it right?
This route may be height dependant, particulrly as per leg length and/or flexibility. The stemming is wide.