Face to Face 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | P1: A. Long, R. Kligfield, J. Kingston, A. Rubin 1977 P2,3: B. Richardson and I. Rezucha 1975 |
| Submitted By: | Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008 |
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Serious business!AaronM
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A great and underrated route. The last pitch will not disappoint.
P1- Climb up an easy, unprotected face. Up slightly right to the back left to a clean face and nice climbing. Make a belay at the GT.
P2- Walk left 40 feet to the right side of the block. Climb up this and diagonal right across the face. Up to the left-facing corner at the roof. Hand traverse right to the face and go up for a belay below a small V-notch.
P3- A bit of everything. Climb through the notch immediately into the nice, strenuous crack. After a short stance, climb up to a thin fingertip horizontal. From here, make the wild traverse out along the crack to the edge of an overhang. Crank through these to the trees. What a pitch!
Location 40 feet right of Three Vultures at a concave face. Begin at the left side, just left of a very shallow right-facing, right-arching corner. If you have doubles you can rap No Glow, which is climber's right; otherwise, walk further to climber's right and down a notch to a bolted rap line over The Last Will Be First.
Protection Standard rack. Micronuts/cams and one 4" unit may be helpful but not necessary.
By Lancelevine
Oct 15, 2010
| AMAZING LAST 2 PITCHES. Do not miss this climb. The first 30 feet are unprotected easy climbing, but then... oh baby... you get a awesome feet cutin' roof traverse, follow that up with a crack crux directly above an overhang (think CCK but with more exposure), and then a fantastic finale through a wild traverse and overhanging roof. |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2010
| The last bit of the last pitch, 5.9 angling left to the top, was first done by John Stannard as as hard finishing variation to Three Vultures. |
By Ksween
From: Wakefield, RI
Nov 8, 2011
| What does the crux crack on the third pitch look like? I ended up going through this notch on a finger sized layback crack/flake. Didnt exactly feel like 10b at the gunks. Was I off route? Anyone have pics? |
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 10, 2012
| Crux on p. 3 is right off the belay, a butt scum in a small right facing corner with fingers in a thin crack. This leads up through easier terrain, then either (1) break left on a pencil thin finger traverse and bust through the roofs or go 15 degrees right and break through the roofs there. Both options seem hard for 5.10 |
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