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h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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Face to Face T 
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Last Will Be First, The T 
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Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
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Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Face to Face 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: P1: A. Long, R. Kligfield, J. Kingston, A. Rubin 1977 P2,3: B. Richardson and I. Rezucha 1975
Page Views: 5,350
Submitted By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Serious business!AaronM

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great and underrated route. The last pitch will not disappoint.

P1- Climb up an easy, unprotected face. Up slightly right to the back left to a clean face and nice climbing. Make a belay at the GT.

P2- Walk left 40 feet to the right side of the block. Climb up this and diagonal right across the face. Up to the left-facing corner at the roof. Hand traverse right to the face and go up for a belay below a small V-notch.

P3- A bit of everything. Climb through the notch immediately into the nice, strenuous crack. After a short stance, climb up to a thin fingertip horizontal. From here, make the wild traverse out along the crack to the edge of an overhang. Crank through these to the trees. What a pitch!

Location 

40 feet right of Three Vultures at a concave face. Begin at the left side, just left of a very shallow right-facing, right-arching corner. If you have doubles you can rap No Glow, which is climber's right; otherwise, walk further to climber's right and down a notch to a bolted rap line over The Last Will Be First.

Protection 

Standard rack. Micronuts/cams and one 4" unit may be helpful but not necessary.


Comments on Face to Face Add Comment
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By Lancelevine
Oct 15, 2010

AMAZING LAST 2 PITCHES. Do not miss this climb. The first 30 feet are unprotected easy climbing, but then... oh baby... you get a awesome feet cutin' roof traverse, follow that up with a crack crux directly above an overhang (think CCK but with more exposure), and then a fantastic finale through a wild traverse and overhanging roof.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 16, 2010

The last bit of the last pitch, 5.9 angling left to the top, was first done by John Stannard as as hard finishing variation to Three Vultures.
By Ksween
From: Wakefield, RI
Nov 8, 2011

What does the crux crack on the third pitch look like? I ended up going through this notch on a finger sized layback crack/flake. Didnt exactly feel like 10b at the gunks. Was I off route? Anyone have pics?
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Apr 10, 2012

Crux on p. 3 is right off the belay, a butt scum in a small right facing corner with fingers in a thin crack. This leads up through easier terrain, then either (1) break left on a pencil thin finger traverse and bust through the roofs or go 15 degrees right and break through the roofs there. Both options seem hard for 5.10
By Sean McAuley
May 11, 2015

The crux of P3 is almost directly over the crux traverse of P2 (slightly to the left actually) and is a butt scum into a thin seam which eventually becomes thin hands/stacked fingers. After this I traversed a few feet right, then angled back left on a fingertip (green alien) traverse into space, then powered through some big roofs to some stacked flakes. The Trapps App lists these flakes as loose but they felt pretty secure to me. Outrageous route that deserves to be counted in with the best 10s in the gunks.
By Pawel
From: NJ
Jun 15, 2015

P2 is asthetic, easy to read and very well protected. I'd recommend it as a good entry level 5.10 gunks roof.
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