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Pinhead Wall
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'11 Is Out '12 Is In.  S 
Arterial Flow S 
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Energy Crisis T 
Face Of A Dictator S 
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Go Speed Racer S 
Gray Matter S 
Grecian Corner S 
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Zerbina S 
Zippy S 

Face Of A Dictator 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?????
Page Views: 291
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Nov 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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John styling the upper section

Description 

Technical climbing and puzzling sequences on steep rock.

Location 

First route left of Pinhead Crack. Heads up face to a wide pillar.

Protection 

Bolts.


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By Jimbo
Nov 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Mary and Rays route is a letter grade or two harder than Go Speed Racer. More like .11a/b. Top half is really good. Opening moves are weird and troublesome.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 9, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Groundfall runout from 3rd to 4th bolt, it's on easier ground but also where there's a lot of crappy rock.
By Myk
From: tucson, az
Dec 24, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Could be a decent climb with 2 more bolts. Easy climbing through the 2 runout areas, but the rock is crap there. A pack of playing cards size chunk of the nice ledge I was clipping from popped off under my foot while I was clipping the 4th bolt. Would have been a grounder if I hadn't grabbed the draw. Stay to the left when going for the chains. I was a bit spooked after the 4th clip and was looking for easy ground to get to the chains and went for the big holds to the right of the chains. Bad idea since my big handhold broke off just as I was clipping chains. Could easily have been a 30 footer onto a ledge. Great solid holds if you stay to the left though. Don't really understand the reason for the runouts. Plenty of solid rock to put in 2 more bolts to keep people off the ground and big ledges. It would be totally different if it was nice solid rock, but it's not.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Crimpy, hard, I think its well worth doing if you are over here. Do Go Speed Racer first as it is better.