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Routes in 3. The Mid Section
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Bruin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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building steam with a grain of salt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coloring Book (& Variation) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Easy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Face Dances T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fifty Center T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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L' Anniversaire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Littoral Zone, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Livin' Easy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pencilneck Geek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rhino Skin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Rubberneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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True Colors T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | Alain Comeau & Janot Mendler Comeau 1981 |
| Page Views: | 974 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | chinos Garlough on May 19, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open.
Details
Description
One of the more popular routes on the slab; most folk skip P1 and P3 and walk up to the tree belay stance at the start of P2. [R Hall added May 2017]
The route (P2) starts on the low angled slab and climbs up through the bulge in the white streak. Clip an older 3/8" bolt at the bulge (crux) and continue up past 2 more bolts to a 3 bolt anchor ( 2 old, 1 new, all 3/8 inch) set for rapping. Pitch 3 continues up to the woods on easier climbing. Rap with 2 ropes, even from the 3 bolt anchor.
BEWARE the error in the Handren guide that states the 2nd P is 70feet...it's more like 140-150 ft; in any event even a single 70meter rope (115ft doubled) doesn't get you back to the belay from the anchors. It will, however, get you to the old 3/8" single bolt...if you're into that sort of thing.
Should you want to climb the original P1, it’s start is reached by scrambling up left from the toe to the watercourse, then up another 10-15 ft to a generally flat area with several blown-over trees (2021).. Climb up and left, staying left of the obvious flake of Coloring Book, in bushy corner(s) and over some of the only less-than-solid rock on the cliff. Make a few unprotected moves on slab to the tree belay on the left. A bit ugly and totally out of character with P2.
An Alternate P1, much cleaner and more solid rock, starts about 1/3 of the way up the approach path that leads to the usual “ P2 start.“ The same path that leads to the climbs further left: Height of Land climbs and Left Climbs. See photo of topo sketch and COMMENT.
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