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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Don't Shoot T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.74053, -74.18289 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 146,610
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Columbia, which follows the obv...

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>

Along the Cliff 

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth


Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the trail leading to Welcome to the Gunks.
The main approach for the middle of this area is this trail, which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the Mme G's trail.

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

Routes, left-to-right 

Asphodel: 5.5, G
Beatle Brow Bulge: 5.9+, PG
Blueberry Wine: 5.10+, R
Blueberry Ledges: 5.5-, G
Seldom Mustard, Never Relish: 5.10, G
Beginner's Delight: 5.3, PG
Octoberfest: 5.9-, R-X
Snooky's Return: 5.8, PG (**)
Friends and Lovers: 5.9, PG
Minty: 5.3, G
Bag's End: 5.8+, PG
Tipsy Trees: 5.3, G
The Womb Step: 5.7, PG
Chimango: 5.9+, PG
Hawk: 5.4+, PG
Peregrine: 5.8, PG
Reach of Faith: 5.10-, PG
Southern Pillar: 5.2, G
Columbia: 5.9-, G
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst: 5.6, G (**)
Madame Grunnebaum's Sorrow: 5.8-, PG
Tetonia, 5.10
Le Teton: 5.9, G
Finger Locks or Cedar Box: 5.5, G
Northern Pillar: 5.2, G
Hyjek's Horror: 5.8, R
Twin Oaks: 5.3, PG
Triple Bulges: 5.5, PG
Delusions of Grandeur: 5.9+, PG
Willie's Weep: 5.2, G
Don't Shoot: 5.6, G
Lat-On the Season: 5.7, PG
Gleet Street: 5.8, R
Funny Face: 5.5-, PG
Son of Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, PG
Immaculate Virgin: 5.6, PG
Bitchy Virgin: 5.6, R
Unamed: 5.2, G

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.5 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's):
Tipsy Trees   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Southern Pillar   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Minty   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Beginner's Delight   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Northern Pillar   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Asphodel   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Triple Bulges   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Hawk   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 290'   
Finger Locks or Cedar Box   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Son of Bitchy Virgin   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Immaculate Virgin   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 210'   
Snooky's Return   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   
Mr. P's Wurst   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   
Hyjek's Horror   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Columbia   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Friends and Lovers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   
Le Teton   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Beatle Brow Bulge   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Tetonia   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Featured Route For f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up the first pitch.

Snooky's Return 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NY : The Gunks : ... : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame...
Snooky's is a lovely face climb up the obvious vertical thin seam and crack between Beginner's Delight and Minty. The good news is that the climbing is continuous and fun. The bad news is that it's directly in the rappel line for both Beginner's Delight and Minty - it's not uncommon for newer parties, with less experience in rappelling and/or etiquette, to send ropes and pebbles down without warning. Or to insist/assume that you will wait to finish your lead until all four of them have ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About to rap from the top of Madame G's
About to rap from the top of Madame G's
Rock Climbing Photo: Madam G's approach trail
BETA PHOTO: Madam G's approach trail
Rock Climbing Photo: Bitchy Virgin approach trail (note immense boulder...
BETA PHOTO: Bitchy Virgin approach trail (note immense boulder...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Beginner's Delight
BETA PHOTO: P1 of Beginner's Delight
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The giant dihedral of Asphodel
BETA PHOTO: The giant dihedral of Asphodel
Rock Climbing Photo: Minty approach trail. Look for pine tree on right ...
BETA PHOTO: Minty approach trail. Look for pine tree on right ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...
BETA PHOTO: The Madame G's buttress. The route ascends the mid...

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