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(F) Must Be Likin' Lichen
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Green Mt. Buttresses (GMB)
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(A) Feetlips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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(B) A Hint of Squirrel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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(C) The Imp of Nod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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(D) Grass Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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(F) Must Be Likin' Lichen T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Dark Pope, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | AS, JMw 9/2010 |
| Page Views: | 1,866 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | JMayhew on Oct 13, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is more of a mountaineer type route with big ledges, trees, some loose rock, and lots of lichen. There are many variations possible on every pitch. You can actually hike in to the top of the first pitch from the right. If you veer off the original line be even more wary of loose rock and lichen!
1. Short horizontal and vertical cracks protect moves up face to 1st vegetated ledge. Step right and climb a shallow corner or a clean flake (better) to next large tree ledge. (5.6 100)
2. Diagonal left past small tree to a short crack thru a bulge, then up thru a small roof crack. Continue on face past a bolt to the next big ledge. Belay a little higher on smaller, sloping ledge with a tree. (5.7 100)
3. Right behind the tree is a crack used to backup the belay. Climb the next crack to the right, which becomes a steep, curving flake that angles back left. Follow this then wander up, passing a small tree on the right. Belay on a nice ledge about 15 feet above the tree. (5.7 80)
4. Up and then left along a thin horizontal flake, then up a crack to a small ledge with a corner above. Start in corner then step right onto face, continuing up easier ground to the top of the main buttress feature. (5.6 90)
5. Shift belay down into notch. Steep boulder moves lead past a bolt, then easier climbing to the summit. (5.7 60)
Descent: Scramble down steep gully and slabs on (climbers) right side of buttress.
1. Short horizontal and vertical cracks protect moves up face to 1st vegetated ledge. Step right and climb a shallow corner or a clean flake (better) to next large tree ledge. (5.6 100)
2. Diagonal left past small tree to a short crack thru a bulge, then up thru a small roof crack. Continue on face past a bolt to the next big ledge. Belay a little higher on smaller, sloping ledge with a tree. (5.7 100)
3. Right behind the tree is a crack used to backup the belay. Climb the next crack to the right, which becomes a steep, curving flake that angles back left. Follow this then wander up, passing a small tree on the right. Belay on a nice ledge about 15 feet above the tree. (5.7 80)
4. Up and then left along a thin horizontal flake, then up a crack to a small ledge with a corner above. Start in corner then step right onto face, continuing up easier ground to the top of the main buttress feature. (5.6 90)
5. Shift belay down into notch. Steep boulder moves lead past a bolt, then easier climbing to the summit. (5.7 60)
- Note: Combining any pitches will probably create some really annoying rope drag.
Descent: Scramble down steep gully and slabs on (climbers) right side of buttress.
Location
Park at San Pedro Vista and hike the Green Mt. Trail for approx. 10 minutes past 2 rocky ridges, (the 1st is Branching Out Crag.) You should be able to see the western buttress from the trail. Just after the 2nd ridge, contour off right at first switchback and head straight across the steep slope, then a slight diagonal up to the base of the western buttress. Skirt around the base on a ledge, then continue over to the base of the eastern buttress. Start at base at clearing, just before dropping down around corner. (20 min. total)
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