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Robber's Roost
Routes Sorted
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Ambushed S 
Band of Gypsys S 
Big Flake S 
Bubblicious S 
Burglar, The S 
Conny Loves Dadddy S 
F-Dirt  S 
Five Finger Discount S 
Glory Daze S 
Great Train Robbery Extension, The S 
Great Train Robbery, The S 
Highway Man S 
Joe Dirt S 
Los Banditos S 
Rooster, The S 
Shotgun S 
Stealers of Culture S 
Unknown S 
unknown 2 S 

F-Dirt  

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 191
Submitted By: John Wilder on Jul 6, 2014

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Description 

This is the easiest of the extensions on the routes at the Roost, and one of the most fun that I've done. Bring a 70m and expect to use the entire thing! Hang tough through a couple cruxes (good holds appear quickly above each of them) and the chains are yours.

When lowering off, it's a good idea to unclip all but the first chain draw to straighten the rope and give you a few extra feet of slack to get down. It can be a very close lower with a 70m if your 70m is older or cut at exactly 70m.

Location 

Left hand extension at the top of Train Robbery.

Protection 

This is the left hand extension at the top of the Train Robbery. Start up Robbery (it's a good idea to use some long slings and back clean a couple draws to keep drag down), then bust left after the first anchor and follow chain draws to the anchors high above.


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By Joe Wysznski
Jul 23, 2014

Awesome route! use long slings on Great Train Robbery's last 4 bolts and maybe skip some. My 70m a Mammut climax 9.6 left me hanging about 8 feet above ground, an easy down climb from there though.