(f) Cocaine Gully Rock Climbing
Sticking the crux. Burly climb.
The Cocaine Gully sits parallel to the Aggro gully to its right. The short steep walk is well worth it to get to the pumpfests found within.
The Cocaine Gully lies between the West Ship and the Morning Glory Wall. Follow a path up underneath the right side of the gigantic boulder at its mouth of the gully, then take the trails up as high as you need them.
Weather station 7.0 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in (f) Cocaine Gully
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (f) Cocaine Gully
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (f) Cocaine Gully:
Deep Impact 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Armageddon 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Bloodshot 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 90'
Freebase 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For (f) Cocaine Gully
Bloodshot 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a OR
: Smith Rock
: (f) Cocaine Gully
A motley of cruxes pepper this classic route, but it's mainly defined by its sustained, deviously circuitous character. You get everything - a tricky overhanging deadpoint (or trickier static), a thin and technical crux, a sustained finish, and a great view at the top.For such a large crag, smith is heavy on great 12's, 13's and 14's, and relatively short on world class bolted elevens. Of the (two or three) handfuls that qualify, this is absolutely one of the best. ...[more] Browse More Classics in OR
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: Roseburg, OR
Dec 11, 2011
Went up Cocaine this week (December 2011). The normal approach is in bad shape. There is warning tape saying the approach is closed, but people still go up. The stuff is very unconsolidated and not safe. The way up/down on lookers left is solid but 4th-ish, exposed, but solid. If you are not in proper footwear, like keens or flip-flops put your climbing shoes on!
I believe the conditions will change as more water flushes out rock. Might get better, might get worse.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Dec 16, 2011
The traditional approach (via the climber's right side of the gully) has been closed due to the high frequency of rockfall. The base of Vomit Launch is right at the top of it and anything knocked down by parties up there scours the tunnel and anyone in it.
There is a reasonable alternative on the extreme climber's left side of the gully which involves some maybe-exposed 4th classing, (comparable to Asterisk Pass) but has far less loose rock.
By kent benesch
Apr 18, 2015
There is now a rappel anchor to facilitate an easy and safe descent from Cocaine Gully. The anchor is located at the left hand side (as you look towards the river)of the gully near the base of The Blade. 2 stainless bolts with long chains. Spread the word!