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Wheeler Gorge
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Gould, Agulara, 1994
Page Views: 1,727
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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It's like climbing up the chimney of a little cott...


A good intro to cobbles--straight-forward and fun. Quite a pretty little piece of rock.

The balancy crux sometimes spits off 5.10 climbers; however, it is so well protected that this is still a great lead even for those not yet comfortable at the grade.


4 bolts to bolted top anchor (1/2" wedge bolts) with Mussy Hooks.

Photos of Ezra Slideshow Add Photo
Ezra from across the creek.
Ezra from across the creek.
Carlo Rivas on Ezra, Wheeler Gorge.
Carlo Rivas on Ezra, Wheeler Gorge.
Liza Butler, of Sausalito, Calif.
Liza Butler, of Sausalito, Calif.
Andy nears the top of Ezra (5.9), at Wheeler Gorge...
Andy nears the top of Ezra (5.9), at Wheeler Gorge...
Rachel Main and Laine MacTague, of Santa Paula, en...
Rachel Main and Laine MacTague, of Santa Paula, en...
Andy climbs Ezra (5.9), at Wheeler Gorge.
Andy climbs Ezra (5.9), at Wheeler Gorge.

Comments on Ezra Add Comment
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By EnFuego
From: Seal Beach, Ca
Jan 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Seems as tho people have pulled cobbles at convenient locations to make this route easier. But then again, maybe it's a coincedence that these cobbles "fell" or "pulled" out. Please don't chip any holds.
By Khoi
From: Vancouver, BC
Dec 28, 2013

I did this climb in mid April of 2013. IIRC, virtually every hold I used was a cavity where a cobblestone once was.

Was it not like that when this climb was established?

Does any one know for sure?
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 30, 2013

There are holes like these all over the walls of the gorge (even where no routes exist). On Ezra specifically, there have been no knew holes in the past 15 years.
By Kimba
Apr 28, 2014

Climbed Ezra today. Reached for one of those mini boulders set in the rock...and found it fractured vertically in several places...with about half the rock ready to fall out. It was about half way up on the far left side. Soon, there will be another giant "cavity where a cobblestone was once". It was rock solid a few weeks ago when I was there last!! Agree with Matt...it seems like a natural process.
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Jan 21, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun, quality climb, with a thoughtful crux, worth the time.
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