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P1 of EZ Street. You can see all three bolts. Ka...
Three pitches with the second being the crux. This route was bolted in 1994 by Mark Van Horn. P1 - goes at 5.4 with 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. P2 goes over the little headwall which is protected by bolts and is about 5.6. P3 heads to the top and eases off again.
P1 is a great beginner lead up very featured slab. The three bolts are where you need them to make it feel not run out. A 60m rope will get you down from the belay anchor with lots to spare. I think this first pitch is a better first lead than Counter Strike.
To the right of Happy Trails. It starts on a ledge with a tree.
Draws and a light rack if you want one.
BETA PHOTO: Photo shows location of 1st pitches of Moby Grape ...
|By Derek W|
Jun 29, 2008
A buddy and I tried this route today. It was his first lead, the first pitch was great...but was the second really a 5.6 going over that headwall??? I made it over after he tried way to the right of the second bolt, but was this where the route is supposed to go? If so the swing for the second is pretty sketchy after cleaning his last bolt. Any info would be great! Climb on!
|By Chris Grosshans|
Jun 7, 2010
The first pitch is easy (5.5ish). I do not think the second or third pitch were 5.6. The head wall on the second pitch is tricky (5.8ish). If you are short, you will have problems reaching the holds on the third pitches crux. I do not think this is a good first lead.
I would recommend bringing a light rack as the bolts are spacey. Most of my placements were small gear although I used a #3 Camalot on the third pitch.
|By Casey Lems|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 11, 2010
2nd and 3rd pitches are certainly not 5.6. I thought the headwall moves were harder than 5.8. The third pitch crux was very thin and heady.
As Chris said, bring a light rack and don't make this your first lead.
Also, we were barely able to do 2 raps to the ground from the 3rd set of anchors with a 70m. If you have a 60m rope, do 3 raps.
|By Tim Stevens|
From: Divide, Colorado
May 16, 2013
My wife led this route in the summer of 2008 and went to far left at the headwall on the 3rd pitch, fell, and sprained her ankle four days before our wedding. We went back this weekend and completed the route.
The first pitch is a good beginner lead, easy climbing, heady, with only 3 bolts and not much harder than 5.4. On the second pitch, after clipping the second bolt on the headwall, I stepped right and climbed the arete. It was a little heady but not much harder than 5.7. On the third pitch, I moved right from the bolt on the headwall to gain the ledge. It felt 5.9 to me. The anchor is over the upper headwall off to the left. I used a #3 Camalot on the third pitch.
Two raps with a 70m will get you within 5' off the ground. Otherwise, do 3 raps.