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 ADVANCED
Poe Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brothers in Arms T 
Edge of Fright T 
Eyes of the World T 
Maelstrom, The T 
Mississippi Half-Step T 
Off Your Rocker T 
Prequel to the Sequel T 
Uptown Toodeloo T 

Eyes of the World 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Schlauch, Mike Pennings, Oct. 8, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 382
Submitted By: mike schlauch on Oct 24, 2013

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...and another cartoon from Steve.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Eyes of the World starts with the first section of Edge of Fright's second pitch. At the horizontal where Edge of Fright goes left, step up and right into the obvious, dis-continuous crack system. Piece together the puzzle, stepping back and forth between Poe's rightmost cracks and the next crack to the left. A 3.5 or 4 cam may help protect the initial section, although we didn't have any of those on the FA.

The crux is probably where the first discontinuous crack section ends and forces you to reach left with a committing move above good gear. Have a finger-size piece ready to place. Switch back to the right crack near the top and then continue to the Mississippi Half Step anchors.

This is dedicated to Steve Dieckhoff. He and I hunted around for a new route on the right side of Poe in the early '90s, getting shut down on what is now Prequel to the Sequel (nice job on that FA!). We never completed a new route, so when Prequel was recently climbed, I decided to go have another look.

If anyone knows if this has been done previously (Noel? Olaf? Rufus?), then I will edit the FA. It would be nice to keep the Grateful Dead theme alive on Poe Buttress. RIP, Steve.


Protection 

Basically the same as Edge of Fright, with the addition of a 3.5 or 4 cam. A 70m rope with some extra long runners or double ropes is recommended.



Photos of Eyes of the World Slideshow Add Photo
Crossing over from the rightmost crack system to the left, probably the crux of the route.  Have a 0.5-1" cam ready.
Crossing over from the rightmost crack system to t...
Classic Steve Dieckhoff cartoon.  His website is still alive - <a href='http://www.stevedieckhoff.com/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.stevedieckhoff.com/</a>.
Classic Steve Dieckhoff cartoon. His website is s...
Step right where Edge of Fright goes left, then it's game on....
Step right where Edge of Fright goes left, then it...
Comments on Eyes of the World Add Comment
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By Cor
Oct 24, 2013

Nice work, Mike! Must be the one you told me about….

I was livin' it up in Bishop CA eating 3 catered meals a day, all while you were up there hoping the runouts didn't turn you into a catered rock meal. ;)

Cheers!