|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 115'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||RyanJames on Feb 24, 2010|
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
FA: Ryan Fields, Gordon Ogden
North facing rock inside the "alley" due east and down from "Three Amigos". Easiest to walk around the tower complex rather than rap down "Route Out" This climb is exactly on the other side of the tower than the south facing new climb "World Vision."
10 bolts, definitely runout above the crux -- but hard to want to stop to place any pro, and the jugs make it easy to keep going. The bolts and anchors on the crux look like they've taken some hard falls and it'd be wise to protect above them rather than risk a long fall.
Quick links and rap rings are now on the anchors up top, but the rap is still down the west side. A 70 m rope brings you comfortably to the base of the climb and pulls easily. A 60 m rope brings you to easy downclimbing back to the base. The 3 anchor bolts include a sketchy looking bent Mammut hanger, which we did not put a link on. Will replace with new bolts and better hangers at some point as this is a most-excellent route on fantastic rock.
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Mar 9, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|My favorite route in The Glitter Box area. Sustained at the grade. The crux is really just the over-all length of the thing. Sheesh. The anchors are waaaay around up and to the right. Getting to the anchors was the PG-13 part.|