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Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead)
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 44
votes
Routes in Indian Palisades Corridor
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Bitter Brew T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cotton Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X |
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Eyes of Amber (aka Chivalry's not Dead) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Harrell-Turner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Hippo Paradise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kansas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Liver is Evil and Must Be Punished, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mumbling Bee T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Serpent Scales S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shake the Snake S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Shank, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Snakes in the Grass S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Toe the Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Water Moccasin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wheat Chex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Willit Slab S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Woody's Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Alan Nelson, 3/87 (solo), bolted by - Louie Anderson & Bob Bealle, April 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,830 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mark J. Nelson on Oct 28, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Locate Water Moccasin (5.7); this is the well-bolted, left-arching friction route climbing the right edge of the brown section of the wall.
Eyes of Amber climbs past two bolts and a long runout, optionally protected with small trad gear, to the obvious ledge and tree.
A 50m rope is plenty to get you back to the ground, but the tree is on the small side of confidence-inspiring for a rappel anchor.
Vogel describes two routes (Chivalry's Not Dead, 5.7 and Snakes in the Grass, 5.9) in between Eyes of Amber and Water Moccasin. Neither route showed evidence of bolts or chalk. In fact, this description MIGHT be for Chivalry's Not Dead, but that just makes Eyes of Amber more ambiguous.
Eyes of Amber climbs past two bolts and a long runout, optionally protected with small trad gear, to the obvious ledge and tree.
A 50m rope is plenty to get you back to the ground, but the tree is on the small side of confidence-inspiring for a rappel anchor.
Vogel describes two routes (Chivalry's Not Dead, 5.7 and Snakes in the Grass, 5.9) in between Eyes of Amber and Water Moccasin. Neither route showed evidence of bolts or chalk. In fact, this description MIGHT be for Chivalry's Not Dead, but that just makes Eyes of Amber more ambiguous.
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