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a. The Uberfall
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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Gary Hemming and Claude Suhl (1959)
Page Views: 1,099
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


This is actually an OK route, and there's almost never anyone on it.

Climb the crack (crux) to a horizontal and stance, then continue up the face via the path of least resistance (straight, actually; slightly runout, but fairly easy) to a horizontal just below some overhangs. Traverse right a few feet to a flake system(optional belay). Climb the flake to another horizontal, then traverse right along a crack about 15 feet to a left-facing corner topped by another overhang. Climb the crack, passing the overhang and up the face to the top.

Descend using the Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.


In the Uberfall area, at a 10-foot high crack about 20 feet right of Nosedive.


Standard Gunks Rack.

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By Gunkiemike
Jul 11, 2010

One of many routes that the Swain guide gets totally wrong. Follow those directions and you'll be in scary 5.9 territory at the long overhang.
Jul 12, 2010

Mike, I climbed this route once a few years ago, but I these directions seemed reasonable for what I remember - basically, climb up below the big roof, then keep heading right and up by the line of least resistance. Can you provide some supplemental text ... ?

Edit add - just reclimbed this yesterday, and these directions are right ...
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 29, 2014

I like this climb. It's wandery and fun, enough gear to keep you safe. Fun little corner to climb at the end. Rap off the horseman tree.
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